Question Those Who Split Wood By Hand

[Bucndoe]

After my son shot a buck last week in Deer Camp he proceeded to break the handle on the camp maul. It was going anyway. I replaced the handle today but have a question for those hand splitters out there. I got the wedge in there and it is super tight and solid, however do I need to add smaller metal ones through that wedge or is that over kill ? 

[JHbowhunter]

I defer to Rusty, but my favorite 6lb maul eventually made it's way to a fiberglass handle which is no way as good as original wood but it's now permanent.  Tried  multiple replacement handles exactly as you are doing over 20++ years but none lasted regardless of wood or metal shims to hold the handle in place. 

As long as it is in there tight- take it as long as it goes but lower your expectations would be my advice. It will get loose sooner than you wish. If you over-shim it, it will just weaken the handle i think. 

[Swamp_Yankee]

Forget the wedges and get one of these:

The handle is impossible to break and the head is permanently attached.  It's much lighter, swings faster, and you'll be astounded at what you can split with it vs. a regular maul.

[Bucndoe]

I like fixing things and it has been a part of that camp for a long time. I'm sure there are others that are better out there but it is engrained in the fabric of that camp

[gobblergetter]

I usually add the small metal wedge to the wedge.

Another practice is to soak the head in used motor oil to swell the wood. Heard that, never tried it

[madeinuk]

To answer the OP's question - I always used to use the iron wedges into both the wooden edge and the handle too.

I also have the same splitting axe that Swamp Yankee has - I was leary of a 'plastic axe' at first but I was sold on the longer handle which provides more kinetic energy - it work very well.  But for serious 'rounds' of tree I use this:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Fiskars-8-lbs-Forged-Steel-Maul-with-36-in-Fiberglass-Core-Handle-751110-1001/300703984?mtc=Shopping-B-F_D28I-G-D28I-28_11_TOOLS-MULTI-NA-Feed-PLA-NA-NA-BASE_SHP&cm_mmc=Shopping-B-F_D28I-G-D28I-28_11_TOOLS-MULTI-NA-Feed-PLA-NA-NA-BASE_SHP-71700000041074948-58700004807804150-92700041230804539&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8qyj4NuB5gIVIueGCh1S8wPVEAQYBCABEgJOz_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

This sucker destroys all before it and for truly stubborn knotty and twisted stuff I use the hammer side to drive in splitting wedges.  Again the longer handle delivers the goods and it also really absorbs the stock when the wood is stubborn.

 

Edited November 24, 2019 by madeinuk

[Rusty]

As long as it's tight you should be fine.  If it gets loose add the other wedges.  

On a side note, hit the logs on the side closest to you and your handle won't hit the log and break.  

[Rusty]

P.S.  These rubber handle savers are a great investment.  This is the original handle and it's gotta be 15 years old and split 50-60 cords.    

[chuck172]

fiskers,  just get a fiskers!

[Rusty]

39 minutes ago, chuck172 said:

fiskers,  just get a fiskers!

Fiskars are nice, I have 6 of their products, but nothing beats a nice hickory handle.  

[MGHunter66]

4 hours ago, Rusty said:

, but nothing beats a nice hickory handle

 

[midwestxpress]

I replaced my wooden handle with an axle from a crown vic. Handle is there for ever.

[Bucndoe]

I put the metal wedges in. All done now

[Zipper]

My question to those who split wood by hand. WHY???

[Swamp_Yankee]

1 hour ago, Zipper said:

My question to those who split wood by hand. WHY???

Its a great workout especially when you get into a rhythm.  With a Fiskars you can swing fast and crack open rounds quickly without having to constantly reset as long as you're splitting nice straight grained wood and it turns into full blown cardio.  I love going outside and hand splitting on a cold day.  That said, I only do it for the pure enjoyment and exercise.  The majority of my firewood is machine split.  Hand splitting everything would take too much time.