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Condurso's in Montville, close to EC, has bags of corn.

What size bow?

Have you researched how many quarts you can get out by draining? If you can only get 4 or 6 out and it takes something like 12 total. I would do a drain & fill and drive for a few months. Repeat a few times. Then maybe next year, do a flush using the trans line. Chevy fluid should be cheap enough to make it worthwhile. My car costs $45/ quart! Also, no fluid is lifetime. Change those diffs while you are on the ground.

Like a EU 2000i inverter? Before you do anything, is there any gasoline in it? If not, or if so, drain the gasoline, fill with fresh gas, and add some seafoam. Try to start, it probably won't. Wait a week and try again. The carbs in the EU-2000i have incredibly small diameters through which gasoline passes; maybe the thickness of a pin. They are probably gummed up, as mentioned before. SeaFoam should take care of it. Give it two weeks. When you put them away, I: (1) remove the gasoline, (2) run them dry, (3) open cap, and (4) store them on their side for a week or two. Then, I put them away right side up. Again, they are very easy to gum up. I wouldn't leave gas in them for more than a month or two.

You can't leave a comment like that without details! Sako Finnbear? ... Unfortunately, $1000 doesn't seem to buy much these days. I just went online to check the price of Rem 700's and Howa 1500's and was shocked by some of the prices. Have a look at Chrisensen Arm's lineup. If I were going to buy something, it would probably something like this.

Optics are tricky to quantify. There's probably two factories in the world that make most of the glass for every manufacturer. I have had a few Vortex and Burris scopes. They are both inexpensive, but not "cheap" scopes. I have noted that the secondary market seems to have a lot of Vortex scopes though. I have no problem with Leupold scopes. However, some of them are close to, if not greater than the cost of a Night Force. I have a March scope which I use for Bench Rest. NF would probably be more overall favorite scope. I use the Night Force for precision work using my 22lr, hunting rifle, and AR. Night Force scopes are battle ready tough. They take a beating like no other. That does come with a price in weight though. They are not light! When it comes to clicks, I think NF is the most precise out there. I have shot off of a bench rest at 100ya. Click 1 moa off of the impact point and you'll be 1" off on the next shot. Click back 1 moa and you'll be right back on the original point of impact. I often shop by reticle and love the NP-R2. Night Force's illumination is top notch and their customer service is great. Night Force's rings and rails are high precision. I have used them out to 1000ya and shot sub moa groups using factory barrels with handloads. I had a few Nikons with the BDC reticle; again, a nice scope. Bushnell probably gets you the most bang for you buck and the Elite series is great IMHO. Nothing bad to say about any. To be honest, I never heard of Huskemaw though. I would not hesitate to purchase a Swaro or Zeiss. But again, I bet all of the top scopes use the same glass. Then it comes down to coatings. I suspect that some companies optimize coatings for either dusk or dawn knowing that is a test by which people judge the scope. When I used to shoot in Bench Rest competitions, there were three scopes used by everyone: Night Force, March, and Schmidt & Bender. March was a more recent addition to what was almost a mostly Night Force field. Due to the high magnification (8-80) only March offered at the time.

... and buys a drink. A tachyon walks into a bar.

Nice choice! Of course I will recommend a Night Force. However, most of the deer I have shot, out to 450ya, have been using a Burris 3-9x40mm Fullfield II with the ballistic plex reticle. Great deal at $159.00 and if you go to OpticsPlanet, you should get a 10% for sacrificing your email address. You could pick up some XTR rings for $90.00 too. I like having six bolts per ring. Whatever you purchase, get a thin reticle; no heavy posts. Thick reticles can ruin a dusk or dawn shot. I match manufacturers to rings and scope. Other honorable mentions that I have used: Vortex, Nikon, Redfield, and Niko Stirling. Perhaps, the best "cheap" scope is Bushell. +1 - just don't try to convince @Rusty of that! Don't go crazy. Truth be told I bet all of the glass for scopes in the world probably comes from two factories. Here's a nice scope with a little extra magnification - Burris FullField 4.5-14x42mm Riflescope 200338. A little more magnification, but mildots, not moa - Burris 6.5-20x50mm FullField II.

Done.

chenrossi - do you have any centerfire available at the moment? What brand are you using? I agree that reloads are not necessary inside of 400ya. For those not precision oriented, results from factory ammo may be better than reloads.

I'll try to claim that prize with this post. KE = 1⁄2mv² (note the cool fonts!) For the big guy, given: Weight = W = mg = 360.lbs velocity = 4.00mph Let the positive direction be the direction of motion and approximate the problem as one dimensional for simplicity. Converting to metric units, even though I do not believe in foreign rulers. (Get it? ) I think a 1.00kg mass weighs about 2.20lbs on Earth. Thus, using three sig-figs W = 164kg and v = 1.79m/s Plug and chug KE = 1⁄2mv² = 1⁄2(164kg)(1.79m/s)² = 262.|7 Nm = 263J For the arrow KE = 1⁄2mv² = 1⁄2(0.0233kg)(91.4m/s)² = 194.|6 Nm = 97.3J KE big guy / KE arrow = 2.70 Thus, KE Big Guy = 2.70 (KE of arrow) The big guy's KE is almost triple that of the arrow. As for, momentum, P = mv P big guy = (164kg)(1.79m/s) = 294Ns and P arrow = (0.0233kg)(91.4m/s) = 2.13 Ns Thus, P Big Guy = 138 (P of arrow) The big guy has much more momentum than the arrow. A sanity check on the above would be greatly appreciated. Not sure if I used the correct conversion for grains. While we are here: P = mv solving for v v = P/m substitute this result into KE KE = 1⁄2mv² = 1⁄2m(P/m)² = 1⁄2P²/m KE = P²/2m Now we play the "constant game" to answer any scenarios of what is constant: mass, speed, momentum, or KE. In any mathematical equation you can remove any/all constants along with the equal sign and replace with the proportionality sign (α). If the big guy and the arrow had the same momentum, we would hold P constant and of course "2" is a constant. KE = P²/2m KE α 1/m Which reads KE is inversely proportional to mass. Thus the less massive object, the arrow, would have more KE. Enough nerding out. But thanks for waking up the Physics brain!

The 243 is a European caliber, IMHO. In the EU, where you must justify a "need" for every rifle you own, the 243 is a nice compromise for someone that may want to lamp foxes or hunt deer. In the States, I would consider it a bit anemic. However, it will get the job done. Nothing bad to say about Leupold. However, $ for $, I would go NightForce any day of the week. Stop your whinging lad, are you still shooting factory ammo? Get some copper solids! What stock are you shooting? Can you not just use some sandpaper and elbow grease? If you were shooting the Ko2M , I might agree. However, for 1000ya or less, I charge a 6-pack of HH Home brew. Or feel free to borrow the level. I'd buy a McMillan stock before I headed to G&H. Again, don't go crazy ChenRossi. Get good glass and a good trigger. I like 2.0oz for BR and 1.5lb in the field. I've pulled 8lb lawyer proofed triggers in the field on game day and vowed never to do it again. Even a cheap plastic stock can easily be free floated with a bit of sandpaper. Much of what is said in this thread deals with precision. You need to be accurate, not precise. If you can hit a standard paper picnic plate at 300ya, you are more than fine. Most any rifle/ammo/scope combo will shoot that easily.

Do tell... Not a problem for any of the calibers you mentioned. Factory ammo would probably shoot sub moa that close. Even a 308 is supersonic past 1000ya. You'll have no problem with Kinetic Energy. KE is nice and although my 338WM is as fast at 200ya as my 30-06 is at the muzzle, the kick of the 338WM often comes at the price of a flinch. Half on rifle, half on scope, rail, and mounts. In regards to rifle, I would get a 24" barrel, 22" minimum. Get a decent stock, it needs to be free floated and not one of those plastic jobs with the tabs underneath that contact the barrel. You don't have to break the bank on a stock (McMillan). A Boyd's with a bit of sanding or Stocky's Stocks would do just fine. If Jewell makes a trigger for the rifle, buy it. Otherwise, if Timney makes one, consider it. Do you reload? Buy a Night Force scope. My old BR scope now does hunting duty since the BR rig graduated to a March. Purchase flip open see-through lens covers. I would take a Remington 700 out any day. Savage is probably the most under-rated rifle out there; followed closely by Howa's 1500. Sako's and their cheaper cousin Tikka are great too. However, you limit yourself in: rails, rings, triggers, stocks... I would choose a Sierra Game King bullet anywhere from 165gr to 180gr. Either will have more than enough accuracy and precision for your needs. If you do not reload, find some factory ammo that uses Sierra Game King bullets, like HSM. If you decide on a 30-06, try Hornady's Superformance SST with a 180gr bullet. I have shot a few Sika/Fallow hybrids around 350-400ya using a Burris 3-9x40mm scope and the 30-06 180 SST with devastating results. Get a good bipod too. Ask the guide what kind of shot you are likely to get and practice accordingly. Nothing like practicing prone on well groomed grass and having grass up to your hips on game day! 300ya is what I consider the upper limit to low-range shots. At this distance, I first noticed problems with cant. At medium ranges (3ooya-600ya) the problem worsened. To minimize the problem, you need to level your rifle and then level your scope. This simple kit helped me shoot a 6" group at 1000ya. Here's another kit I use from Arisaka. It takes me about an hour to setup for 1000ya. Setting up for 300ya, is easy enough. I would suggest the Wheeler kit.

Although I think a benefit in October is best, I was wondering if a Christmas party/benefit would be possible this year. Would those in charge of the Christmas party please advise their thoughts? My concern is what to do if we go into lockdown again, as many are already predicting, towards the end of the year.

Is the season for the Apprentice License (AL) the same as that for the All Around Sportsman's License (AASL)? Then purchase permits as desired? As an example, suppose an apprentice [only] wants to hunt the pre-season under the supervision of a mentor. Who needs to get the pre-season permit: just the apprentice or both apprentice and mentor? Thanks in advance for any constructive help. Only bow hunting considered.