Jump to content

Swamp_Yankee

NJW&W Members
  • Content Count

    774
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

Swamp_Yankee last won the day on July 22

Swamp_Yankee had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

818 Excellent

About Swamp_Yankee

  • Rank
    Y Buck

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • County, State
    Hunterdon County, New Jersey

Recent Profile Visitors

1,262 profile views
  1. I actually did this on my barn beam mantle-the barn it came from was probably close to 100 years old so the boards were machine cut with nice saw marks, etc... It had been sitting out in the weather for a long time so it had a gray color to it. I used a wire wheel on it and not only did it bring up the grain, saw marks, knots, and holes nicely, it took off of the soft, weathered, gray wood and revealed a nice brown color. I didn't even apply any finish to it, just mounted it:
  2. Today's progress-rigged a pulley system from some garage door pulleys, chain and rope to make hauling these beasts 15' up a little easier. As much as I love spending time in the woods alone, an extra set of hands would be nice: One support bolted in and one in process: Cross braces in place front and back:
  3. Probably would have gotten my supports up today but ran into a snag-literally. Yesterday I took down two maples that were in my sightline. I figured I'd get rid of those and use the trunks to make a bridge across the little brook in the back that my girls like to play in. I hinge cut the first one perfectly, the second one not so much. I got my Stihl 026 stuck and had to free it with my McCulloch 650. Of course it had pinched the first saw because it was already headed the wrong way: It was leaning right on my stand tree. I called my neighbor who showed up with his Kubota and 100' of rope which allowed us to pull from the field. A little Kubota power and a few well placed cuts and we snapped it in half about 10' up from the ground causing the top to fall straight down and then off to the side: After I cleaned up the mess and lugged the logs over to the brook I had just enough time to drag the supports back to the tree and call it a morning because the wife had to go out and I have kid duty.
  4. On small WMAs I would agree with you. Some of these little 50-100 acre pieces the state owns with houses on all sides are nothing more than hideaways for teens smoking dope, ATV riders, and wannabe off-roaders. The only place you can really get away from all of this is on the larger 1000+ acre WMAs with some study of the surrounding area. When I used to hunt the mills I would drive about as deeply in as my Toyota pickup (mirrors folded in) would allow on some long forgotten two-track and then park and get as far away from any type of road or trail as I could. I never had a problem as bad as things were in there when COs and NJSP were constantly chasing illegal ORVs, etc... The thing is, you've got to put in the time. The time to study and pinpoint your area, the time to travel there, hike, etc...which, depending on where you live can be unrealistic, which is why I only hunt my own property now. The advice I would give to public land hunters is this: You're familiar with the concept of a safety zone-look at your chosen WMA on Google maps and draw a 1000' perimeter around every house and major road bordering the WMA. That's the "A--hole Zone." The only way that you're going to be able to hunt in peace is if you go in deeper, beyond the A--hole Zone. If drawing the 1000' perimeter results in no huntable property, go somewhere else. The Gap, Greenwood Forest, Colliers Mills, Stokes, Wharton, High Point, etc...all have areas like this but a lot of the smaller ones (Clinton, for example) do not.
  5. Finished the side supports today: Now I have to lug them about 150 yards to my spot. Each weighs about 70lbs-I rigged an attachment point up in the tree from a ladder using a ratchet strap and some chain connectors: The idea is to haul up each one and tie it off so that I can bolt it in. Thank God for three day weekends...
  6. In the market for a good homeowner plow to take care of our 1/2 mile long gravel lane. We live 1/4 mile off of the county road and our neighbor lives about a 1/4 mile down from us at the end. Right now he takes care of the plowing with a Toyota Tundra and I believe a Meyer homeowner plow. He and I help each other with road maintenance, etc...and I want to be able to take care of the lane if he's not around or not able to. I'm no stranger to plows, trucks, and equipment, but that said, I'm not about to go out and purchase professional/commercial grade equipment to plow a 10' wide, 1/2 mile long lane 10 or 15 times a year for an hour at a clip. However, I do want to buy a well made plow that will last many years for the type of use it will see. My personal truck is a 2012 F250 super cab short bed 4x4, 6.2L gas, 3.73 gears, electric locking rearend, and snow plow prep package. It seems that just about every plow manufacturer makes a homeowner model these days and its hard to get a feel for them just watching videos on Youtube, etc... I have seen a few differences though and I will say that I definitely want a hydraulically operated plow as opposed to a winch or something of that nature. Given the fact that I'll be plowing gravel, a model with available shoes is important as well. As far as ease of getting it on and off, that's not a huge concern because most of the time I will plow the lane, park the plow truck, and take my work vehicle into the office. I know that my neighbor's plow is a PITA to get on and off as I've helped him with it a few times. I'd be interested to hear from those who plow commercially what they they think of the various homeowner models out there.
  7. Amen: It took us 10 years of trying to find the right jobs and then the right house and property, but we committed to it and we'll be here two years at the end of this month. Wouldn't trade it for anything.
  8. Interesting idea - "Poor Man's Fiberglass" - coating rigid foamboard insulation panels with canvas and Titebond II wood glue: https://www.instructables.com/id/Poor-Mans-Fiberglass-make-nearly-anything-weatherp/ Seems like it would make a very lightweight, durable, and cheap panel.
  9. Potential shelter idea: I'm looking at ways to build lightweight panels out of 1/2" foam board insulation glued to 1/4" luan or similar cheap plywood (kind of like a cheap SIP if you're familiar with those)-this way I could build and insulate all in one shot. Everything would be panelized in 2' x 4' panels or so which would make hauling everything up there easier, and I can just buy a couple of gallons of cheap exterior paint in green, brown, tan, and grey and slap it on there. I want to keep my shooting windows as open as possible and just use some see-through camo netting as "curtains" that can open, close, or move depending on conditions.
  10. Yup-I did a lot of reading up on those. Treehouse Attachment Bolts or TABs are a good way to go but very pricey and definitely overkill for what I'm doing. They are meant for supporting structures that weigh thousands of pounds. I found a lot of other examples where people had come to the same conclusion I did-that large lag bolts will do just fine for small to medium structures. For now I'm just going to use an aluminum extension ladder I bought for $25. I may build a ladder later on. Here is the picture of the extra reinforcement on the gusset:
  11. The mitered joint is actually sandwiched between two 1/2" plywood gussets that are glued and screwed. On the outside of each support I then glued and screwed (with 2-1/2" deck screws) sections of 2x6 (will post a picture when I get home). The idea is to have a composite consisting of layers of wood solid and glue which, as you said, makes the mitered seam moot.
  12. I'm pretty sure you could build just about anything with PL Premium, 2-1/2" coated deck screws, and enough lumber.
  13. Google Sketchup-it's like a free amateur version of AutoCAD The load will be carried by four 1" bolts, one through each 2x8x10 crossbeam and one through each of the side supports. Each bolt has a shear strength of about 15,000lbs, so that's not an issue. As far as pulling out of the tree, I'll be drilling as small a hole (3/4" or less) into the tree so that the threads get plenty of bite. There will be about 7" of threaded steel penetrating into the tree. For a large healthy oak tree this should be plenty strong enough. I did beef up the sides of the stringers with 2x6s on one side of the plywood for exact reason you mentioned. With regard to the load cantilevered out from the sides, I may end up adding more support once I get it up there and see how it behaves. If anything, this will end up being way overbuilt-there is likely a way to do it with a much lighter structure that could carry a specified design load in a more engineered and elegant way, but I don't have the know-how to do it that way. Therefore I'll probably spend a little more time and money overbuilding something that could probably hold my truck up in the air even though it will never see anywhere near that much weight.
  14. Thinking about building a lightweight frame out of furring strip type wood and stapling something like this to the outside as a shelter: https://camofabricdepot.com/shop/600d-poly-shadowblock-mossy-oak-break-up-country-60/
  15. *EDIT* Nevermind-pictures are showing now.
×
×
  • Create New...