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Back to doing my trucks myself


smittty

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Just did mine last week.  Pricy battery and a re-program...$330 (dealership is way more expensive than that.)  Bimmer draws a lot of juice when it's not running. This one lasted 27 months.
Oil changes...9 quarts of Amsoil Euro Spec which I get super cheap (ONLY $9/qt and a $42 filter) Gotta love ridiculously expensive oil changes

Thank god. Somebody knows the difference between a Beamer and a Bimmer.


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I still do it, when I can. I enjoy it, acquired a good amount of tools over the years. Various places to get discounted OEM parts. Just wish I had a nice, big garage.
Put new CV axles on my daughter-in-law's Explorer before the snow.

Back in the recession I was working for a defense contractor things were good. I scooped up guns and tools. Scored a basically brand new Snap on double box for about $1200 and the list was almost $5k. Started combing Craigslist to buy new snap on tools. Yes they are expensive but they feel so good in your hands


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47 minutes ago, 230jhp said:

I never heard of that before.  I replaced the battery on my 2012 Ram without monkeying with the computer.

What year truck? make? model?

I had a problem with the fob on my current truck (2013 Ram). Several locksmiths wanted$300+ to program it. I  found a guy that did it for $150. 

Years ago I replaced the fob on my 2002 Ranger. I replaced it because the plastic loop that attaches it to the rest of my keys was broke. They wouldn't sell just the plastic shell I had to buy a new fob. However the dealer programmed it for free.

2019 F350 6.7 diesel. Truck did not need to be re-programmed. Dual batteries can be changed one at a time. 

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3 hours ago, not on the rug said:

Lot of vehicles require programming for battery replacement these days.  Total pain in the ass.

It's more of a reset rather than a reprogram. Engine computers change battery charging strategies based on the age of the battery. Four year old batteries get charged at a higher rate then a one year old battery. On some cars you need to tell the computer that you have a new battery so it doesn't overcharge.

Edited by Woodsman416
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5 hours ago, smittty said:

I’ve always done most of my Mecanic work myself and not that I want to but may have to start again. I just had a local mechanic put wires plugs rotar and cap on my suburban it has a 5.7 in it. Price was 450.00 I almost fell down. Or may I should open a shop. Does that price sound right

What year?  I haven’t seen a cap and rotor on an engine since the late 90’s early 00’s.  

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4 hours ago, tjfslaughter said:


If you shop online you will even get parts cheaper and usually dealer OEM parts. Shocks you can get top of the line Bilsteins cheap. I patronize the local autozone but for some items I go online.


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I'll usually get parts from NAPA and will wait for a promotion to make it really worth doing the work myself.  I did get KYB shocks from Amazon and one failed and they sent me new ones under warranty without issue.

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9 minutes ago, Gunsmoke said:

 

I'll usually get parts from NAPA and will wait for a promotion to make it really worth doing the work myself. 

Nuts. Napa is way overpriced! Do yourself a favor and go here that's where I go and compare.

https://www.partsgeek.com/

“In a civilized and cultivated country, wild animals only continue to exist at all when preserved by sportsmen.” -Theodore Roosevelt

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10 minutes ago, mike033089 said:

I’ve used Rockauto they have almost every part. However their shipping cost can make them more expensive than Amazon for the same product 

My shipping was free. Came days earlier than  expected plus need be, they offer this.

 

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Screenshot_20220201-214308.png

“In a civilized and cultivated country, wild animals only continue to exist at all when preserved by sportsmen.” -Theodore Roosevelt

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Years ago I had a 1975 Chevy C30.....you could sit inside the hood and swap out parts......today half the engine has to come out to reach what you want to work on.......

ESTATESALESBYOLGA.COM    ALWAYS BUYING ANTIQUE AND VINTAGE ITEMS  CALL 908 868 8236 MIKE

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Remember on a SBC motor, replacing a starter motor was 2 bolts and disconnect 2 wires ? Worst part was getting under the car to remove, maybe a 1/2 hr if you already had replacement.  Hope the starter doesn't go on a Honda CRV, it's buried under the front of the motor. This is way to tight for a big old guy without a lift and nothing I'll attempt.  Dealer wanted $750.  Hope you have a trusted mechanic,  cost me $450.

 

Edited by Jerzguy2
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