mazzgolf Posted March 14 Share Posted March 14 tl;dr - plastic vanes make my arrows go screwy - feathered vanes are good. 'splain === Been practicing with my bow getting ready for turkey season. Having a problem with my arrows - gimme opinions (I know you all have lots of those ) Background - I'm using Magnus broadheads - the 125gr 3 3/4" ones. I bought 2 of their arrows to pair with them. These are the arrows. These are the broadheads. Last two years with those 2 original arrows I was dead on with them out to 15 yards - which is what I plan for my max yardage to be. End of last season, while putting my stuff away, I noticed one of the 4" feathered vanes was tore up. I didn't like how these feather vanes were fragile so I bought some Bohning 4" plastic vanes and fixed up that one arrow by replacing all the vanes. Well, last week I shot that arrow with the plastic vanes and at 15 yards it bends severely to the left several inches and down a bit- I can see it curve while its flying through the air. It's going to be a miss when headed for a turkey's face. I figured I screwed up the fletching so I took it to a shop to get them to re-fletch it with new 4" plastic vanes. I also bought a second identical arrow from them, except I had them put on the same 4" plastic vanes that they put on my arrow that I asked them to fix. I went out with the new arrows and BOTH do the same thing - they curve to the left! I have 3 bullhead broadheads, and I tried all three thinking something was wrong with one of them. I even replaced one of the blades that looked slightly bent. I rotated the nock on one ever so slightly because it looked like maybe one of the vanes could be kissing a cable on the way through. Nothing really changed. Then I took out my original arrow that still had the feather vanes on them (I never replaced those - the feathers are still in good shape). Sure enough - dead on at 15 yards! I don't really like those feathered vanes because they so easily break - walking through the woods and even just packing away the arrows parts of the feathers bend and break off. But, I can't argue with the results. Is it possible those feathered vanes really make a difference? I am thinking of taking it back to a shop and putting on the same kind of feathered vanes even though I don't like them. Here's what they look like - notice how the feathered vanes look like they are helical (even though they aren't put on on an offset) - I don't know where that curve of the vanes comes from, but I wonder if that is helping to stabilize. If so, maybe I can find a plastic vane that has the same shape??? Original feathered vanes on the right, new plastic vanes on the left original arrow with the feathered vanes (notice the helical shape): new plastic vanes (notice the straight shape): Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fab Posted March 14 Share Posted March 14 I’m assuming a stick bow. The plastic vane is deflecting off the rest or the handle and not recovering Finger shooters usually get best results with feathers More forgiving and recover faster I use only three 5 in feathers. If that’s flying for You. Use that. You dont need 4 feathers if you getting stable broadheads Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mazzgolf Posted March 15 Author Share Posted March 15 Compound bow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hammer4reel Posted March 15 Share Posted March 15 More than likely getting vane contact on your rest . Four fletch should be 105/75 sure looks like your vaned arrow was fletched 90/90 second is straight fletching vanes with huge head isn’t going to steer well , especially if getting any contact with your rest should either helical or rifled . barrike, Septicdude, not on the rug and 2 others 1 4 Captain Dan Bias REELMUSIC SPORTFISHING 50# Striper live release club. http://reelmusicsportfishing.blogspot.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmc02 Posted March 15 Share Posted March 15 Arrows also could be too light (underspined) hammer4reel 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beaverman Posted March 15 Share Posted March 15 Get out your favorite lipstick and run it along the edge of those plastic vanes the shoot and look for stripes on your bow/cables/rest toxo 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fab Posted March 15 Share Posted March 15 It’s hitting something for sure and not stabilizing y not just shoot 3 vanes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mazzgolf Posted March 15 Author Share Posted March 15 The only reason for 4 vanes is because the original arrows from the Magnus people had 4; I figured that was needed for these broadheads. I just kept it the same. So if I do helical it might shoot better? Should I stick with 4 or go to 3 vanes or it doesn't matter? I really don't want to waste my favorite lipstick, that stuff is expensive... But if it'll help me figure this out, I guess I'll have to do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trophy8 Posted March 15 Share Posted March 15 You need a stiffer spine for those BH's Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jcol6268 Posted March 15 Share Posted March 15 Most likely you are making contact with the rest as Hammer said. Hence why they will fly with feathers. Could also be overspined on the arrow (hitting left) but I doubt it. I would go through seeing about contact with the rest. Spray your fletching with powder foot spray and shoot it, see if your getting contact on the fletching. Devil Horns 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fab Posted March 15 Share Posted March 15 Are u shooting a release If yes you don’t normally need the helical Just an off set should do the fletching must be hitting something Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fab Posted March 15 Share Posted March 15 The 4 fletch will normally steer or stablize the bigger heads better than 3. But u got more drag and more issues with clearance. Also I have like a fletching bag over my feathers. It’s camo. Has a sting that goes up and I’ve the top the quiver to keep the feathers inside dry and together Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hammer4reel Posted March 15 Share Posted March 15 (edited) 7 hours ago, Jcol6268 said: Most likely you are making contact with the rest as Hammer said. Hence why they will fly with feathers. Could also be overspined on the arrow (hitting left) but I doubt it. I would go through seeing about contact with the rest. Spray your fletching with powder foot spray and shoot it, see if your getting contact on the fletching. Bullhead arrows are over spined intentionally. they are a 300 spine .(some of the original ones were 350 spine ) for 55-65 pounds , 200 spine over 65#. Due to the size of the large blades of the broadhead .(though they are left longer than most shooters need length wise to soften them a little They also are made much longer to weaken the spine a little 4 fletch extreme helical is used to create a lot of drag to try and make them as accurate as possible . its a tried and true combo . Mazz should stick to what Magnus has found to be tried and true , instead of making changes . . Edited March 15 by hammer4reel Captain Dan Bias REELMUSIC SPORTFISHING 50# Striper live release club. http://reelmusicsportfishing.blogspot.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hammer4reel Posted March 15 Share Posted March 15 (edited) 7 hours ago, Trophy8 said: You need a stiffer spine for those BH's Those magnus arrows are 300 spine for 55-65# bows if shooting over that they recommend their 200 spine Edited March 15 by hammer4reel electric10162 1 Captain Dan Bias REELMUSIC SPORTFISHING 50# Striper live release club. http://reelmusicsportfishing.blogspot.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SPEARFISH Posted March 15 Share Posted March 15 Get some Rage and your problem will be gone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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