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Work Sharp - Standard Edition or Ken Onion Edition?


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I know there were a few threads talking about the Work Sharp where most people love it for sharpening their knives, so I'm going to get one and try it out.

Question: For those that have the Work Sharp (especially if you used both the Ken Onion edition and the standard one), is the KO edition worth the extra money?

I was looking to get the more expensive Ken Onion edition but the Lowes down the street only has the standard model in stock; they don't have the KO one. So I was thinking just go with the one that is in stock and $50 cheaper, but I have the money and am willing to order the KO model online and get it shipped to me if its worth the extra money. (Lowes also gives a 10% military discount, which is why I was looking at them).

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I have the standard one and am very happy with it. Never used the Ken Onion. I dull a lot of knives skinning and the standard one does what I need and performs flawlessly. I can’t justify the cost of the Ken Onion, but it’s up to you.

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31 minutes ago, JerseyJaysTaxidermy said:

I own one - not a fan.  Only use it for scissors. Prefer my magic chef sharpener for knives.

When I said in my OP "... talking about the Work Sharp where most people love it for sharpening their knives"... the reason I said "most people" and not "everyone" was because I had you in mind -- I knew you said you didn't like it in one of those threads :)

Magic chef ... I had one of those kinds of sharpeners but I hated it (probably a different brand, can't remember because I threw it out. lol.) Never got anything sharp, maybe I didn't know how to use it, I dunno. I figure in your line of work, you need sharp blades so I take your opinion to heart.. however, you are overruled by basically everyone else who says they have a Work Sharp and like it ;) 

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If you can’t get a knife sharp with a work sharp , it’s user error .


lots of knives work great at 20% 

fillet knives , pocket knives , kitchen knives .

‘but some such as buck knives were made to be 25 or 30 due to them wanting a tougher lasting edge .

‘If you tried to use 20 on that style knife you would either need to remove way too much steel , or would never get anything but a slight edge sharp .

 

work sharp used correctly is effortless , takes very little with each belt to get them hair shaving sharp .

.

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3 hours ago, hammer4reel said:

If you can’t get a knife sharp with a work sharp , it’s user error .


lots of knives work great at 20% 

fillet knives , pocket knives , kitchen knives .

‘but some such as buck knives were made to be 25 or 30 due to them wanting a tougher lasting edge .

‘If you tried to use 20 on that style knife you would either need to remove way too much steel , or would never get anything but a slight edge sharp .

 

work sharp used correctly is effortless , takes very little with each belt to get them hair shaving sharp .

.

My issue with the worksharp is changing the sandpaper grit (not long but a nuisance) 

I dont like how you can't get to the rear inch of the blade bc something comes in contact preventing your knife from going fwd more. Not that you really use that to cut with but I like the whole blade to be sharp.

When you are moving backwards the knife tip comes off the guide and you are forced to freehand the angle of the knife tip (the most important part of the blade) 

I also don't like that it changes the shape of your bevel to  a rounded v instead of a flat v (so if you find yourself in a jamb with a different type of sharpener it may not be as easy to freshen up the edge without grinding it)

I let @JHbowhunter use mine once- if I remember correctly he wasn't a fan either..

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1 minute ago, JerseyJaysTaxidermy said:

My issue with the worksharp is changing the sandpaper grit (not long but a nuisance) 

I dont like how you can't get to the rear inch of the blade bc something comes in contact preventing your knife from going fwd more. Not that you really use that to cut with but I like the whole blade to be sharp.

When you are moving backwards the knife tip comes off the guide and you are forced to freehand the angle of the knife tip (the most important part of the blade) 

I also don't like that it changes the shape of your bevel to  a rounded v instead of a flat v (so if you find yourself in a jamb with a different type of sharpener it may not be as easy to freshen up the edge without grinding it)

I let @JHbowhunter use mine once- if I remember correctly he wasn't a fan either..

You just go from the other side you can getbthe whole blade.  I've touched mine up on one of those Rapala sharpeners no issues

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16 minutes ago, Ron said:

Was not a fan either. Watch YouTube videos and everything, just was not for me. Sold it. I prefer stones. 
 

But this is just my opinion. 

I like my ceramic sticks the best for touchup.. steel file for a little more touch up.

My cheap work knives i use a belt sander and a file. 2 seconds and edge is back.

Or throw away scalples

I only sharpen my hunting knives on these machines and that's once a yr. A buck and a Gerber. 

Once they go dull I'm done shooting deer anyway lol

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I've tried a bunch of things, from those kitchen sharpener things, to Smith's Bench Stone, to the 5 stone Lanskey system... just can't get a good sharp blade that I'm looking for. I'm sure it is the Indian not the arrow, but I just want something easy and quick without needing a lot of skill and time/patience.

I picked up the Work Sharp at Lowe's tonight. Played around with an old cheap fake Swiss army knife I had laying around - it started out completely dull. I promptly grounded down the tip like they warned against :) but it started slicing paper after a bunch of passes. Looks like it's hard getting the front edge/tip because the blade comes off the guide so you have to be careful. I'm not crazy about that. I guess that's what @JerseyJaysTaxidermy is talking about when he said "When you are moving backwards the knife tip comes off the guide and you are forced to freehand the angle of the knife tip" I completely agree with that.  But then, that's true with everything else I tried -- the front/tip is the hardest part to get sharp no matter what method I use. This isn't any harder, except I guess if you aren't careful you can round off the tip pretty quick.

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1 minute ago, mazzgolf said:

I've tried a bunch of things, from those kitchen sharpener things, to Smith's Bench Stone, to the 5 stone Lanskey system... just can't get a good sharp blade that I'm looking for. I'm sure it is the Indian not the arrow, but I just want something easy and quick without needing a lot of skill and time/patience.

I picked up the Work Sharp at Lowe's tonight. Played around with an old cheap fake Swiss army knife I had laying around - it started out completely dull. I promptly grounded down the tip like they warned against :) but it started slicing paper after a bunch of passes. Looks like it's hard getting the front edge/tip because the blade comes off the guide so you have to be careful. I'm not crazy about that. I guess that's what @JerseyJaysTaxidermy is talking about when he said "When you are moving backwards the knife tip comes off the guide and you are forced to freehand the angle of the knife tip" I completely agree with that.  But then, that's true with everything else I tried -- the front/tip is the hardest part to get sharp no matter what method I use. This isn't any harder, except I guess if you aren't careful you can round off the tip pretty quick.

The funny part is I am good with a stone and can get a blade scary sharp.(I shave with a straight razor) but for all the knives I sharpen I like the work sharp

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