Tenpoint Crossbows, What Are You Shooting?

[BHC]

difference between the 29x and the 29x sniper seems to be the bolts...29x .003, the 29x sniper .001 correct me if I'm wrong

[Haskell_Hunter]

31 minutes ago, BHC said:

difference between the 29x and the 29x sniper seems to be the bolts...29x .003, the 29x sniper .001 correct me if I'm wrong

I am not sure, but I think so.  There might be something else in the package.

I got the non-sniper package.  You want the .001's with lighted nocks.  You want the soft case for the crossbow, it's really nice.  I also got the 6-bolt holder for the .001s to store them and the broad heads in.

[bushden]

This is a good informative topic. I have a PARKER Tornado that I got when the 1st came out and have never had any problems with it, except that the optional crank that you can get stinks, and now all these years later that crossbow seems to be getting heavier every year () and I would like something easy to crank and as light as possible to ease my walk to the stand. That said I have not started looking yet but intend to do it right after the next knee surgery in January so I have something to play with in the yard during recovery and maybe use it for Turkey in 2022. Any information and suggestions on light weight models that have not had major issues would be appreciated.

[Haskell_Hunter]

32 minutes ago, BHC said:

difference between the 29x and the 29x sniper seems to be the bolts...29x .003, the 29x sniper .001 correct me if I'm wrong

https://ravincrossbows.com/product/ravin-001-premium-match-grade-lighted-arrows/

https://ravincrossbows.com/product/ravin-soft-case-r26-r29-r29x/

https://ravincrossbows.com/product/ravin-arrow-case/

If you want to spoil yourself.

[archer36]

4 hours ago, bushden said:

This is a good informative topic. I have a PARKER Tornado that I got when the 1st came out and have never had any problems with it, except that the optional crank that you can get stinks, and now all these years later that crossbow seems to be getting heavier every year () and I would like something easy to crank and as light as possible to ease my walk to the stand. That said I have not started looking yet but intend to do it right after the next knee surgery in January so I have something to play with in the yard during recovery and maybe use it for Turkey in 2022. Any information and suggestions on light weight models that have not had major issues would be appreciated.

If you peruse Forums like Crossbow Nation and the crossbow section of Archery Talk, you will see that there is no such thing as problem free anymore. Crossbows are getting too complicated and have more things that can go wrong and they will. I think crossbow hunters are being duped. The companies continually chase speed. This leads to all kinds of problems. Look at the rollout of the Ravin 500. People are waiting for the bows that were promised months ago and it's known that there were issues in testing that needed to get fixed. It's very appealing to say that "I have a bow that shoots XYZ fps". You have to decide what you want. A bow that is "fairly modern" or a "highly technologically advanced" bow that may have multiple issues over time. 

As I mentioned before, this chasing of speed is getting out of hand. It's designed to make us want to trade up every year to gain 20, 30, or 40 fps which amounts to nothing in the world of deer hunting when killing most of your deer will be at 20 yds. 

I personally have all the technology and speed I want out of a crossbow right now. It was proven to me on a recent South African Safari.  I want to stay in the woods and not in a pro shop and pretty soon they won't be able to fix them.

My 2 cents. 

Edited October 24, 2021 by archer36

[BHC]

I agree with speeds increasing so does issues 

[Lunatic]

2 hours ago, Haskell_Hunter said:

I set it up correctly.

When I locked a deer with the target lock circle, the reticle appeared well above the deer.  I had to drop the crossbow angle to get the aim point onto the deer.  That caused arrow to drop off of the aim point.

How you hunted from a tree stand or from a blind?

I am also having two other issues:  The holographic illumination is not eyeglasses-friendly.  I have to adjust my glasses to get a good image or else I have double-imaging.  I can mostly work around this, but it's annoying and hard to get a good shot picture.  The scope also sucks at low light.  I was able to glass three deer coming in after sunset but during legal hunting hours.  I shouldered the crossbow and went to range the deer.  As soon as the holographic image appeared, the entire background washed out.  I could not see a damn thing.  All I could do was watch the deer come in with my binos and could not take a shot.

Those three things are a deal-breaker for me.

Tim, the target lock circle always shows up in the same spot, this is not your aiming article. The article appears only after the distance is measured and then the target measuring circle disappears. 
I am not sure about your other two problems but the first one does not exist

[Haskell_Hunter]

1 hour ago, Lunatic said:

Tim, the target lock circle always shows up in the same spot, this is not your aiming article. The article appears only after the distance is measured and then the target measuring circle disappears. 
I am not sure about your other two problems but the first one does not exist

You are misunderstanding me.  Yes, the target lock reticle is always in the center of the scope and does not move.  We agree on that.

However, your aim point does move based on the range and the angle of the shot when the target was ranged.  In my experience, I locked the targeting reticle on a deer at around 12 yards.  The aiming reticle appeared over the deer.  I had to drop the angle of the scope to get the aiming reticle onto the target.  By doing so, the angle that the aiming reticle was set to changed.  There was no way for me to re-target without moving the angle back up.

You can test one of the other issues this way.  Go outside into a very dark area.  I was in a full-canopied woods and in a blind when I experienced this issue.  About 15 minutes after last light, which is still legal hunting time, pick an object that is about 20 yards away and target it.  You'll notice that the whole area of the scope illuminates.  This isn't a bug.  The entire imaging LCD has to turn on in order to display data.  It's the same thing you see when you have a black LCD TV in a dark room, the TV screen is still slightly illuminated.  This is enough light to wash out images at 15 minutes after sunset.  Even at the lowest brightness setting.  And if you aren't already at the lowest setting, it ruins your night vision.  Sucked for me.

I'm not saying the scope doesn't have a place, it's just very bad for me as a person who wears glasses (progressive lenses); it's not great at shooting moving targets at an angle; and it's not very good in low-light conditions.  Shooting flat from a blind during sunlight, it's outstanding.  I had a few other members on the site shoot the bow with the scope at targets, and it was spot on.  Everyone was amazed.  It's the top in its class for that.  However, it suffers in the three conditions I listed above, IMHO.

[Greybeard]

Few issues with the 470 rs that should not be an issue at that price.  First- Get a tube of blue threadlock.  Set screw holding the barrel in the crank handle will come loose and the barrel will fall out. Both set screws fell out that hold the front bar in place.  Quiver is crap and you'll need to threadlock the nut on the cinch lever that tightens the quiver onto the bracket or it can come loose.

Brush head holding the arrow in place is not adjustable and the arrow can slide out when pointing bow downward. Have to keep checking to make sure arrow is all the way in.  I put a stick through one of the holes in the scope base to put more pressure down onto the brush to hold the arrow in place after it is cocked.  Accuslide sticks when lowering it to the string unless you're decocking it with the pressure of the string pulling it down.  Sometimes sled doesn't release on first try

Crank handle should lock into the stock as it does in the crank keyhole.  I made a velcro strip to go around the stock so it can't fall out

Focus ring doesn't stay in place.  Had to put marks on the scope and re align them every time I sit down to shoot.

Butt plate is a week point.  It cracked, I think when I fell, and I didn't fall hard with it.  It may already have been weakened by cranking.  Noticed after it was cracked that the top and bottom of stock was twisting pretty hard in opposite directions as I cranked, opening the crack up with each turn.

[gregtpal]

Someone on here or that other site advised me years back not to blindly chase speed because of the more tech issues.  He considered 350 fps the right trade off between speed & dependability.  I bought a 380. This was years ago so maybe 400 might be a good #.

[BHC]

That Ravin R29 is eye catching.....for the money I will have handle them before committing to one

[Haskell_Hunter]

1 hour ago, BHC said:

That Ravin R29 is eye catching.....for the money I will have handle them before committing to one

I am mounting the new scope on the crossbow this week when it arrives.  LMK where you want to shoot it, and I'll meet you there.

Edited October 24, 2021 by Haskell_Hunter

[BHC]

leaning towards the Ravin 29x with the Hawk https://us.hawkeoptics.com/xb30-compact-2-8x36-sr.html but will also look into other scopes 

[Haskell_Hunter]

1 hour ago, BHC said:

leaning towards the Ravin 29x with the Hawk https://us.hawkeoptics.com/xb30-compact-2-8x36-sr.html but will also look into other scopes 

That's the one I ordered.  Arrives Thursday.  If you want to test out the whole package, LMK.  It'll be ready for this weekend.

[BHC]

1 minute ago, Haskell_Hunter said:

That's the one I ordered.  Arrives Thursday.  If you want to test out the whole package, LMK.  It'll be ready for this weekend.

thank you for the offer