DIY Built In Bench Seat - Painting recommendations

[M&M]

I built this bench seat with lids and storage.  I used maple plywood and poplar boards.   Once I finish trimming out and prepping, I want to paint it.

This is my conundrum.  I've been testing the method of using roller (foam, 1/4 nap, 3/8 nap) and brush, etc. and am not very thrilled with the results on a left over piece of maple plywood.    I was thinking of getting a paint sprayer (other projects coming up).

Does anyone have experience painting something similar with brush / roller with good results?  I am getting too much texture.  So far I've sanded wood to smooth, primed, sanded again, primed, sanded, painted topcoat, sanded lightly, and painted again.   Recommendations welcome.  If my expectations are too high with brush / roller, let me know as well.   I went with Benjamin Moore Advanced paint (satin).   I was recommended Sherwin Williams Emerald Urethane paint as well.  I feel like I've gotten less texture painting a primed door with 3/8 nap Purdy White Dove.

If someone has a smaller HLVP or AirSprayer that they would recommend based on similar use case, please let me know.   I've been pouring over articles, reviews, etc but I'm wary of what I read on-line.  Many of the articles seem to be written by professional writers with links to the products they are getting commissions on.   The reviews at the big box stores are all over the place as well.   Figured I would come here and ask people that may have not been corrupted to post fake reviews or getting commissions to sell products.   Thanks for you help !!!

 

MM

 

 

 

Edited March 5, 2021 by M&M
I meant Benjamin Moore not Behr

[Roon]

Spray it, that will make it seem less. However roller will give you a really nice finish.

Primer it first and  scuff with 220 latex you can even get away with 150.

Follow one direction act like you're prepping for a stained finish.

Primer and scuff VERY IMPORTANT what you do under will show through.

After scuffed clean area vacuum and tack rag KICK EVERYONE out of house.

Use a foam or 1/4 nap roller after you have brushed all you intricate parts and cut in where needed.

They make an additive for latex paint called flow ease or something similar, it will lengthen dry time and allow you to cover with out leaving overlap marks.

What you do under is your most important step.

Good luck and it looks great so far

 

[WVAhunter08]

What sheen level are you using? Semi-gloss or gloss? I think your problem is the behr paint. I had a real problem trying to get that to lay flat painting crown molding. Switch to Ben Moore select semi gloss, laid beautifully flat. Also, don’t over work the the paint as in back brushing or over rolling. High sheen paints are easy leave brush and roller marks. 
I’ve seen really beautiful work with Ben Moore Adavanced trim paints. It’s a hybrid alcyd/water based paint and a lot of pros use it for high end trim work. I really think you’re biggest issue is the behr paint. Even their high end stuff is pretty much garbage 

[M&M]

5 minutes ago, WVAhunter08 said:

What sheen level are you using? Semi-gloss or gloss? I think your problem is the behr paint. I had a real problem trying to get that to lay flat painting crown molding. Switch to Ben Moore select semi gloss, laid beautifully flat. Also, don’t over work the the paint as in back brushing or over rolling. High sheen paints are easy leave brush and roller marks. 
I’ve seen really beautiful work with Ben Moore Adavanced trim paints. It’s a hybrid alcyd/water based paint and a lot of pros use it for high end trim work. I really think you’re biggest issue is the behr paint. Even their high end stuff is pretty much garbage 

WVAhunter08,

I made a mistake above.  I am using Benjamin More Advanced but the guy at the store sold me on using Satin.  Could that be my issue?  Does that lay differently than Semi-Gloss?   I have read good things about it.   My test piece was a little small and maybe my issue as well.  I could be loading too much paint and then overworking based on your comment.  I have a bigger scrap piece that is 2x4 which I will give a shot tomorrow.   Thanks for the help!

MM

[M&M]

17 minutes ago, Roon said:

Spray it, that will make it seem less. However roller will give you a really nice finish.

Primer it first and  scuff with 220 latex you can even get away with 150.

Follow one direction act like you're prepping for a stained finish.

Primer and scuff VERY IMPORTANT what you do under will show through.

After scuffed clean area vacuum and tack rag KICK EVERYONE out of house.

Use a foam or 1/4 nap roller after you have brushed all you intricate parts and cut in where needed.

They make an additive for latex paint called flow ease or something similar, it will lengthen dry time and allow you to cover with out leaving overlap marks.

What you do under is your most important step.

Good luck and it looks great so far

 

Thanks Roon.  I'm going to keep practicing on scraps before I attempt the finale.   Tomorrow I'm going to give it another shot.   

[Roon]

9 minutes ago, M&M said:

Thanks Roon.  I'm going to keep practicing on scraps before I attempt the finale.   Tomorrow I'm going to give it another shot.   

PRIME AND PREP you'll be fine

[midwestxpress]

Roll and tip. Google the process. Wooden boats are painted like this with really good results.

[Greybeard]

1/4"nap mohair sleeve, 3" or 4" roller, and a mohair blend brush like a wooster or purdy.  Roll the sleeve on masking tape first to remove any loose hairs.  Thin the paint to a viscosity that will flow without running. It's always going to be too thick straight from the can.  Better to put more coats on for coverage than trying to do it in one.  Oil paints will flow better than latex.  Don't expect the same results but you can get it close.  Roll out a board at a time and lay it off with a light touch of the brush. Sand between coats with fine paper. Rubbing the sandpaper together first will knock off some of the rougher grit that could cause deep scratches.

[archer36]

Well you did say you are "prepping" it (sanding, etc.) so I won't discuss that. 

1. Since it's "plywood" you want to seal it on all surfaces. It's near a window and will be susceptible to expansion and contraction if it takes on moisture. 

2. All wood surfaces or any surface that is expected to take "abuse" should be coated with an "enamel". It could be anything from a high gloss to a satin/eggshell (lowest gloss) finish. It is not impervious but will hold up longer than a  "flat" finish. 

2. There are paints available that have "paint and primer" in them meaning there is no need for a two step process. If your woods has "knots" or tannin stains, you then have to seal with a stain sealing primer first.

3. You can buy rollers with low nap. Apply several coats until desired smoothness is achieved. 

Finally, go to a "Paint Store" VS a "Home Depot". Get their advice on everything from primer to paint to rollers and brushes. They are experts. Not like the employees at the big stores. Their prices are pretty good also except for their high end paints which are very expensive. 

I owned a Painting Business for 20 years. That's the way I would handle it. 

Edited March 5, 2021 by archer36

[M&M]

3 hours ago, archer36 said:

Well you did say you are "prepping" it (sanding, etc.) so I won't discuss that. 

1. Since it's "plywood" you want to seal it on all surfaces. It's near a window and will be susceptible to expansion and contraction if it takes on moisture. 

2. All wood surfaces or any surface that is expected to take "abuse" should be coated with an "enamel". It could be anything from a high gloss to a satin/eggshell (lowest gloss) finish. It is not impervious but will hold up longer than a  "flat" finish. 

2. There are paints available that have "paint and primer" in them meaning there is no need for a two step process. If your woods has "knots" or tannin stains, you then have to seal with a stain sealing primer first.

3. You can buy rollers with low nap. Apply several coats until desired smoothness is achieved. 

Finally, go to a "Paint Store" VS a "Home Depot". Get their advice on everything from primer to paint to rollers and brushes. They are experts. Not like the employees at the big stores. Their prices are pretty good also except for their high end paints which are very expensive. 

I owned a Painting Business for 20 years. That's the way I would handle it. 

Thanks Archer.  Loud and clear.   I do have to tell you this quick story because its pretty funny.   It was just bad luck on my part as I'm sure there are ton's of great professionals out there that work in paint stores.  I went to Sherwin Williams paint store yesterday to look at rollers.   A lady that worked there offered to help me.   She proceeded to tell me to try their Emerald paint for the project.  She said that she used it to paint all of the trim in the store and it was a great paint.  She proceeds to point to the trim.  I look at it and it had to be the worst paint job I've seen on trim.   Poor coverage, streaks, brush marks, etc.   She than says that she didn't do a great job painting it but the paint is still really good.     I was laughing on the inside.   She was very nice though.   

 

M

[Greybeard]

You're going to get salespeople in paint stores that haven't painted anything other than their own house.  They don't know the tricks of the trade and will sell you what they can make the most profit on.  If you didn't get a primer yet, an oil based primer/sealer will hold up the best.  Thin it a little so it soaks into the wood. You're not looking for coverage with a primer.  If your wood has knots, then use a primer that is also a stain killer.  At least hit the knots with a shellac based stain killer.  Also comes in spray cans, Zinzer(b-i-n).   Latex stain killers eventually bleed through.  Paint and primer in one isn't going to give you the finish you are looking for.

[M&M]

1 hour ago, Greybeard said:

You're going to get salespeople in paint stores that haven't painted anything other than their own house.  They don't know the tricks of the trade and will sell you what they can make the most profit on.  If you didn't get a primer yet, an oil based primer/sealer will hold up the best.  Thin it a little so it soaks into the wood. You're not looking for coverage with a primer.  If your wood has knots, then use a primer that is also a stain killer.  At least hit the knots with a shellac based stain killer.  Also comes in spray cans, Zinzer(b-i-n).   Latex stain killers eventually bleed through.  Paint and primer in one isn't going to give you the finish you are looking for.

Thanks Greybeard.   I wend with Zinsser Cover Stain which is an oil based primer for the purpose of preventing bleed thru.  Agree with the salesmanship in the stores.  I'm sure there are really knowledgeable people in that role as well.  I just didn't get that one yesterday.  It was too funny though.  The trim was so bad that she supposedly painted.   I will get there.  I'm doing the trial an error on the side.  I have plenty of time to get it painted in the spring.   Thanks for all the tips.

 

M

[MRMCR]

Old timers would always swear to mix linseed oil in the paint.........

[Greybeard]

52 minutes ago, MRMCR said:

Old timers would always swear to mix linseed oil in the paint.........

or pee in it to keep it from checking

[Tail Chaser]

Benjamin Moore advanced is great paint. Sounds like you did good with the prep. Although I would have started with a sanding sealer.

I've found that it dries quickly though so put an extender in it. You can get a product called flood at the paint store.  And get a softer brush. Roll it on and feather it out with the brush. It gets better and easier on the final costs. 

Remember your brushing and rolling so it will never be as smooth as a sprayed on finish.

And the glossier the finish the more you'll see the imperfections.

 

 

 

 

Edited March 6, 2021 by Tail Chaser