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Food plots and hinge cutting


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Since you're putting down clover, don't sweat the soils much. A basic pH test kit you can buy anywhere should be fine. Clover is a tough plant and grows well in most soils typical of our area. Maybe you'll spread some lime, but that will likely be all you need.

 

I have a Snapper lawn thatcher that will dig right through the grass and give you bare ground that you can borrow. I haven't run it in a couple of years, but I know I was always able to get it to run in the past. It was my dad's for his lawn service and it's a lot like a roto tiller if you set it low enough, but just to dig out your lawn. I'm in Flanders not too far from routes 80 and 206.

Awesome! Good deal! I guess I shouldn't do all that until I'm ready to seed right away. I'll be in touch :)

 

http://www.jerseyjaystaxidermy.com

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Im wondering if i plant cliver in the spring, what happens to it in the fall? Im planting this on my backyard, so i want whatever i plant to look bice year round (like grass does)

If i plant a spring seed, will i need to replant in the fall?

 

Should i be planting rye grass and oats instead of clover?https://www.whitetailinstitute.com/spring-seeds/

 

http://www.jerseyjaystaxidermy.com

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I have a leach field lawn that I want to plant clover on..

 

How do I get a soil test done so I know how much Lyme or fertilizer to use?

 

Clover is a nitrogen fixing plant, which means, unlike most plants, it can utilize nitrogen right from the air.  So you don't need to worry about nitrogen fertilizer.  

Edited by Rusty
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Jay,

 

If the soil is good as in most of your grass is killed off, then one planting of clover will be good for up to 3-5 years before you need to do it again.  Be prepared to add an electric fence around everything until it gets established in case the deer browse it too closely as it first comes up.  Your deer herd is well in check, so that may not be an issue,  But then again, it is a small plot and can't handle early heavy browse pressure.  They sell inexpensive fences at places like Tractor Supply that are often solar powered if you need it.

 

Next week my logger starts our 4th clearcut which will be between 4 1/2 and 5 acres in size. Once he's done, I bring in my "boulder guy" that I use to bring me boulders for my river work, and he will grub many of the boulders out of the clearcut with his excavators.  Then it's backhoe or bulldozer time and then York rake time and then planting later this summer/early fall most likely.  Our first interior forest food plot on a mountain side that has nothing to offer but acorns (but not every fall) and browse.  At 4+ acres, our plot will be large enough to withstand deer browse until it's well enough established.  I can't wait for my next steps after managing this property for the last roughly 10 years.  It's been a work in progress, but seeing turkeys, deer, bobcats, fisher, bear, woodcock, and even a single ruffed grouse (killed by a hawk) tells me I'm on the right track.  But we needed a major food plot and that is now on its way.  It has taken me 3 years to find a logger willing to take on this project, and the only reason he is has to do with the clearcuts and TSI (timber stand improvement) cuts he's doing on the Newton Water Supply land below us that he will be accessing through my property.  That will add habitat near us as an added bonus and it is closed to hunting (although it sees plenty of illegal trespass hunters).   

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The fertilizer they recommend is 6 24 24, the first number is nitrogen.  N is usually the largest percentage but with legumes you don't need nitrogen so they recommend fertilizer with very little N and more phosphorous and potassium.  

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This is my go-to lab for testing.

 

http://www.wardlab.com

 

Yes, I have had my water tested for beer brewing more than once.  Very professional outfit, highly recommended.  Nerd-approved.

 

They have this kit:  S-7   Alfalfa/Clover Special   $18.00

 

They profile all the stuff for clover.

 

Download this guide and search for "clover".  They talk about everything in details and discuss recommendations for certain mineral levels.  http://www.wardlab.com/download/WardGuide.pdf

Edited by Haskell_Hunter

Sapere aude.

Audeamus.

When you cannot measure, your knowledge is meager and unsatisfactory.

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Get the lime down when you can. It takes awhile to get in the soil. 

I have a truck coming next month to spread lime for me. I put down 5 tons on 5 acres last year and will do at least another 5tons this year. 

I can say it makes a difference. 1st year I did nothing. 

My plots grew but growth seemed stunted. 

This year the plots looked healthier and produced more forage. 

Edited by tcook8296

www.liftxrentals.com

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attachicon.gif2-17-17 edge of hollys.JPGattachicon.gif2-21-2017.JPGI just worked on hinge cutting a group of trees smothered in grapevines, bringing them down to eye level of the deer.

 

Looks good tpr.  Get yourself a hand held broadcast spreader and spread pasture fertilizer all around those grape vines and the deer will go nuts over it.   

Edited by Rusty
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I just went around the small field to grab soil samples to send in so I can prep for clover and I see now that I am full of gravel/shale just beneath the surface. I'm worried if I till the ground it will become a gravel field. Whitetail institute tole me send in the sample to check pH level then call them to go over options... this blows. I hope I don't need to spread top soil over a half acre, it would cost over 1k just for the dirt, then be a pain to spread . He did say clover does not like gravel, so it may cause problems :/

 

http://www.jerseyjaystaxidermy.com

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I just went around the small field to grab soil samples to send in so I can prep for clover and I see now that I am full of gravel/shale just beneath the surface. I'm worried if I till the ground it will become a gravel field. Whitetail institute tole me send in the sample to check pH level then call them to go over options... this blows. I hope I don't need to spread top soil over a half acre, it would cost over 1k just for the dirt, then be a pain to spread . He did say clover does not like gravel, so it may cause problems :/

 

http://www.jerseyjaystaxidermy.com

 

Go in the woods and collect a tons of leaves.  Go over the leaves 3x-4x with a mulcher until they are pretty small.  Spread seeds.

 

Although grass is different, I've grown grass on the surface of road gravel.  The key thing to do is much everything into the turf.  This keeps contributing organic material to the base.  The downside is that your soil probable drains real well and doesn't remain moist.  This means it'll dry out in direct sun and only certain plants thrive in this kind of environment (crabgrass for example).

Sapere aude.

Audeamus.

When you cannot measure, your knowledge is meager and unsatisfactory.

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