Reloading .308 Win

[Silkcitymedic]

With ammunition and components both increased in price and decreased in availability I started to make my own. Everything I have read states .308 is an easy cartridge to load for. I have loaded approximated 250 rounds so far and I am still seeking that one combination that will shine. It is hard to beat Hornady 150 gr American Whitetail accuracy wise. I took advantage of Hornady's get loaded event and have a press, dies, and free bullets. I have been loading with IMR 4064, FGGM large rifle primers, interlocks, SST, and game changers. 

Anyone else reload? Want to share some tips tricks and load ranges?

[vdep217]

Your going to need a case trimmer chamber guage primer pocket cleaner I think varget is a better choice of powder but that's just me 

[Silkcitymedic]

Thanks. I have been trimming cases back to 2.005, chamfering, and deburring by hand. I would like to try Varget but the only place I have seen it in stock as of recent is powder valley in 1 lb containers. I have imr 4064 and cfe 223 on hand. 

[username]

On 9/25/2023 at 7:19 AM, Silkcitymedic said:

Anyone else reload? Want to share some tips tricks and load ranges?

Welcome to reloading!  How much do you feel like spending? 

Generally speaking, you are not reloading to save money or for accuracy.  Most factory ammo is far more accurate than 99% of shooters out there.  You reload for precision.  Hunting is an accuracy game; not precision.  To be successful at hunting, you need to hit an 8" pie plate; which is not much of a challenge at most hunting distances using modern ammo.

Hopefully, you are a detailed oriented and patient.  If not, factory ammo will out shoot your reloads.  I have had great results with 180 Superformance factory loads in my 30-06 taking deer around 400ya with an anemic 3-9x40mm scope.

That said, although I do reload for precision and competition, I would not think of trusting anything less than a handload for hunting outside of NJ. 

If you are going for precision you will also need some other purchases to realize your goal.  (1) Trigger.  If you can get a Jewell, buy it, otherwise buy a Timney.  (2) Look into a rock solid rest such as a Ransom.  If that's too much check out the Rock from Caldwell that does windage and elevation for a reasonable price  (3) You will need a good scope with big magnification.  I like March. Night Force would be a good compromise.  Pay up for a scope sooner than later.  You will not be disappointed. (4) Get a good rear rest bag such as Protektor.  Or better yet, get a rear rest from Ransom! (5) Purchase a good Vernier caliper.  I use Mitutoyo. 

Varget is great, but so to is 4064.  In my data, I have yet to see a clear winner. In either case you are in luck as the 30cal has a "magic" recipe.  One to which I believe manufacturers adhere.  Start with 168gr Sierra Matchking bullets, with 43.5grains of Varget or 4064, and back off the lands.  Some people jam their bullets into the lands a few thousandths.  However, I have never personally had a rifle that shot better jammed.  That said, I only use Sierra and Hornady bullets.  Other manufacturers might be different. 

Get to the range and do Creighton Audette’s Ladder Test or a simple 5 shot group test.  Forget the first shot, especially if the barrel is cold.  You may wish to forget a few shots if the barrel is clean.  Always chronograph and get speed data.  You will find in nodes in the ladder test that will correspond to your barrel's harmonics and are proportional to speed.  When you find a node, fine tune the powder and/or seating depth.  BTW, I have rarely found a rifle that shot well on the hot side.  When doing the ladder test get a few different color markers and color the bullets.  Sometimes bullets go higher or lower in the "ladder."  You will be able to "find" the bullets by the color they leave on the paper.

If you do not have a match grade chamber, I doubt you need "thousandths of an inch" precision.  Nonetheless, you should get the Hornady OAL gauge to determine an overall length of your round.

Although I personally use the RCBS ChargeMaster for dispensing powder charges, my shooting buddy uses a balance scale. I like the ChargeMaster not only for powder but for determining the weight of the bullet.  Before competition I will usually buy 200 bullets and weigh them out.  I will pick the most consistent weight from the lot.  If there are outliers, I use them for sighters.  I will further measure OGL and try to group based on ballistic coefficients. 

Buy  Lapua brass; here ends the discussion!

Now for the fun stuff; AKA maybe later.  After fire forming the brass you will want to reload it.  Thus, you will need to anneal.  If you can afford $1600+ get the Annealing Made Perfect annealer.  Yes, there are cheaper methods, like a drill and MAP gas.  But this is the easiest and perhaps, most effective way of annealing.  Other methods do not offer a way to measure the temperature of the brass.  A "cherry red" glow is neither accurate or precise.

If you have not already bought dies, try CH4D.  RCBS is fine and I use them.  I do not think that RCBS makes a 30 cal bullet sizing die.  I've used expensive bullets in the past ($2.80 + each) and always ran them through a sizing die.  You would be surprised at how much difference there is in bullet diameter and the amount of force required to press them through a sizing die.

Although I do not have a concentricity gauge, the guys I shoot with (who spare no expense) use them.  These gauges allow you to measure runout for ammo and cases.  That is, you want the cross sections of the bullet and case to be concentric.  Here's a link to one gauge for reference. I do not own, but plan to get one soon.

Some of the people I have met at matches claim to measure the weight of their primers.  I am still unconvinced the extra effort is worth it and their results showed no evidence to support weighing.

Another useful link is Wilson.  I have and would recommend their case trimmer.  Don't use it much though...

In case you are interested, I just purchased a reloading kit for the 22LR from Cutting Edge.  I am still trying to determine what powder to use.  I am also doubtful it will out shoot Lapua X-Act or Midas +.

Tip: when you are seating the bullet, do not use one stroke to seat.  I use about 3-5 presses per seating.  Each time seating a littler deeper while rotating the case in between presses.  

Forget the dry and sonic tumblers: buy Thumler's Tumbler.  I used to run a dry tumbler overnight, but can now achieve much better results in less than an hour using the wet tumbler.  Use some Lemi-Shine to polish up the brass.  It's great for cleaning the dishwasher as well! You'll need to buy some stainless steel pins and an RCBS separator as well.

Feel free to ask any further questions.

Like I said, you're not going to save money!  

Edited October 1, 2023 by username

[Sako1]

As far as accuracy, best to free float the barrel, then work up various load combos. What rifle and scope are you shooting? 

BTW, best to back the bullet off a few thousands from the lands. If not, excessive pressure can result. IMR 4064 is my fav for .308 parent cases, .243, 7mm-08, 260 rem, etc. It burns pretty clean vs the flake powders.

Dave

[Silkcitymedic]

Bergara wilderness terrain and Tikka CTR both in .308. 

Right now working on the load for the bergara. Had good results with 43.6 gr im4064 and 165 tgk loaded to 2.805 oal. I will try the max my aics mags will allow and still feed well 2.85 next. 165 sst with 43.2 grains shot well. Rifle seems to have a node of accuracy around 2600 fps. 

 

The target shows three groups at 100 yards. First groups did well.

[flukebelly]

On 9/30/2023 at 10:27 PM, username said:

Welcome to reloading!  How much do you feel like spending? 

Generally speaking, you are not reloading to save money or for accuracy.  Most factory ammo is far more accurate than 99% of shooters out there.  You reload for precision.  Hunting is an accuracy game; not precision.  To be successful at hunting, you need to hit an 8" pie plate; which is not much of a challenge at most hunting distances using modern ammo.

Hopefully, you are a detailed oriented and patient.  If not, factory ammo will out shoot your reloads.  I have had great results with 180 Superformance factory loads in my 30-06 taking deer around 400ya with an anemic 3-9x40mm scope.

That said, although I do reload for precision and competition, I would not think of trusting anything less than a handload for hunting outside of NJ. 

If you are going for precision you will also need some other purchases to realize your goal.  (1) Trigger.  If you can get a Jewell, buy it, otherwise buy a Timney.  (2) Look into a rock solid rest such as a Ransom.  If that's too much check out the Rock from Caldwell that does windage and elevation for a reasonable price  (3) You will need a good scope with big magnification.  I like March. Night Force would be a good compromise.  Pay up for a scope sooner than later.  You will not be disappointed. (4) Get a good rear rest bag such as Protektor.  Or better yet, get a rear rest from Ransom! (5) Purchase a good Vernier caliper.  I use Mitutoyo. 

Varget is great, but so to is 4064.  In my data, I have yet to see a clear winner. In either case you are in luck as the 30cal has a "magic" recipe.  One to which I believe manufacturers adhere.  Start with 168gr Sierra Matchking bullets, with 43.5grains of Varget or 4064, and back off the lands.  Some people jam their bullets into the lands a few thousandths.  However, I have never personally had a rifle that shot better jammed.  That said, I only use Sierra and Hornady bullets.  Other manufacturers might be different. 

Get to the range and do Creighton Audette’s Ladder Test or a simple 5 shot group test.  Forget the first shot, especially if the barrel is cold.  You may wish to forget a few shots if the barrel is clean.  Always chronograph and get speed data.  You will find in nodes in the ladder test that will correspond to your barrel's harmonics and are proportional to speed.  When you find a node, fine tune the powder and/or seating depth.  BTW, I have rarely found a rifle that shot well on the hot side.  When doing the ladder test get a few different color markers and color the bullets.  Sometimes bullets go higher or lower in the "ladder."  You will be able to "find" the bullets by the color they leave on the paper.

If you do not have a match grade chamber, I doubt you need "thousandths of an inch" precision.  Nonetheless, you should get the Hornady OAL gauge to determine an overall length of your round.

Although I personally use the RCBS ChargeMaster for dispensing powder charges, my shooting buddy uses a balance scale. I like the ChargeMaster not only for powder but for determining the weight of the bullet.  Before competition I will usually buy 200 bullets and weigh them out.  I will pick the most consistent weight from the lot.  If there are outliers, I use them for sighters.  I will further measure OGL and try to group based on ballistic coefficients. 

Buy  Lapua brass; here ends the discussion!

Now for the fun stuff; AKA maybe later.  After fire forming the brass you will want to reload it.  Thus, you will need to anneal.  If you can afford $1600+ get the Annealing Made Perfect annealer.  Yes, there are cheaper methods, like a drill and MAP gas.  But this is the easiest and perhaps, most effective way of annealing.  Other methods do not offer a way to measure the temperature of the brass.  A "cherry red" glow is neither accurate or precise.

If you have not already bought dies, try CH4D.  RCBS is fine and I use them.  I do not think that RCBS makes a 30 cal bullet sizing die.  I've used expensive bullets in the past ($2.80 + each) and always ran them through a sizing die.  You would be surprised at how much difference there is in bullet diameter and the amount of force required to press them through a sizing die.

Although I do not have a concentricity gauge, the guys I shoot with (who spare no expense) use them.  These gauges allow you to measure runout for ammo and cases.  That is, you want the cross sections of the bullet and case to be concentric.  Here's a link to one gauge for reference. I do not own, but plan to get one soon.

Some of the people I have met at matches claim to measure the weight of their primers.  I am still unconvinced the extra effort is worth it and their results showed no evidence to support weighing.

Another useful link is Wilson.  I have and would recommend their case trimmer.  Don't use it much though...

In case you are interested, I just purchased a reloading kit for the 22LR from Cutting Edge.  I am still trying to determine what powder to use.  I am also doubtful it will out shoot Lapua X-Act or Midas +.

Tip: when you are seating the bullet, do not use one stroke to seat.  I use about 3-5 presses per seating.  Each time seating a littler deeper while rotating the case in between presses.  

Forget the dry and sonic tumblers: buy Thumler's Tumbler.  I used to run a dry tumbler overnight, but can now achieve much better results in less than an hour using the wet tumbler.  Use some Lemi-Shine to polish up the brass.  It's great for cleaning the dishwasher as well! You'll need to buy some stainless steel pins and an RCBS separator as well.

Feel free to ask any further questions.

Like I said, you're not going to save money!  

If you can find ANY lapua or sk 22lr ammo anywhere… please tell me where !

[tjfslaughter]

Lots of good info above but as mentioned finding your Max Overall Length is what really helps with accuracy.  Don't ever share that ammo with any other gun.  Also if you can find bench rest primers use those.  I started reloading in the barracks in Kodiak back in 98 and will not shoot factory ammo.

[username]

SilkCityMedic - your recipes sound about right.  I would suggest that you complete a ladder test at 300ya with colored bullets.  You could start with 43.5gr or powder and go + or - 0.2grains until you have tested a good range of charges.

If you run a test string of say 10 shots you should find a couple of nodes.  You may also find nodes that have similar speeds.  If so, fine tune charges to see if you can improve the precision.  Then, play with seating depth to again, see if you can improve precision.

In general, I like to send bullets at 2750fps.

10 hours ago, flukebelly said:

If you can find ANY lapua or sk 22lr ammo anywhere… please tell me where !

FlukeBelly, Lapua is as rare as hen's teeth right now.  You should check the regular sites daily as a few boxes do come online from time to time.  That said, I have had some good luck with Long Range.  Here is some in stock.  They also have Super Long Range in stock too.  Bruno's also has Tenex in stock.

[flukebelly]

12 hours ago, username said:

SilkCityMedic - your recipes sound about right.  I would suggest that you complete a ladder test at 300ya with colored bullets.  You could start with 43.5gr or powder and go + or - 0.2grains until you have tested a good range of charges.

If you run a test string of say 10 shots you should find a couple of nodes.  You may also find nodes that have similar speeds.  If so, fine tune charges to see if you can improve the precision.  Then, play with seating depth to again, see if you can improve precision.

In general, I like to send bullets at 2750fps.

FlukeBelly, Lapua is as rare as hen's teeth right now.  You should check the regular sites daily as a few boxes do come online from time to time.  That said, I have had some good luck with Long Range.  Here is some in stock.  They also have Super Long Range in stock too.  Bruno's also has Tenex in stock.

I get all of my Eley from Kilough shooting sports ( i order by lot )

my rifles didn’t really like lapua long range as much as center x and Midas +

one actually prefers Wolf match extra ( basically Eley club)

[Sudsy]

IMI 155 gr boat tail (pre-2018) over 44 gr of H4895, with CCI primers, has been very accurate for me at 200 yards.

Need to up my annealing game. Short of paying big $$ for a machine does anyone have any good tips or tricks ?

[Sako76]

As of yesterday, Cabela’s had Varget.

[cantw82start]

14 hours ago, Sudsy said:

IMI 155 gr boat tail (pre-2018) over 44 gr of H4895, with CCI primers, has been very accurate for me at 200 yards.

Need to up my annealing game. Short of paying big $$ for a machine does anyone have any good tips or tricks ?

I use a battery powered drill, one where you can lock in a fairly slow speed and hold it over a small propane torch.  I only anneal the necks, there are a few videos that show variations with easy to make brackets to hold the drill and even hold 2 torches at once.