DBuck Posted July 27, 2013 Share Posted July 27, 2013 ^^^^^ Yea, well maybe have a sit down with your bud axiom. Cause that toolbag brought everything he gets on himself. Another guy(with only 10 posts) that came over here just to start shit..You ladies should just stay over on that drama filled site Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Axiom Posted July 27, 2013 Author Share Posted July 27, 2013 Axiom, that is a great group at 30 yards without a doubt, especially for anyone jumping out of their vehicle and taking only three quick shots. Perhaps you practice more than you let on. But you NEED to get your sight set for what you shoot asap. Not ragging on ya, just a friendly suggestion.. Have you screwed on a broad head yet and shot them to see how they impact? 48 days and counting..lol Nope.. But i did go out a day or two before and shot a few.. Not many though.. Cant adjust my sight cause i dont have the right tool.. Found myself near Efingers the other day, stopped in and bought an archers wrench set.. It had all the sizes one could ask for, except the size i need.. .... Not in a hurry to try the broad heads.. Plenty of time left for that.. BTW, I had to stop practicing at 20 yards.. i'm ruining too many arrows.. Damaged six today because my groups got too tight... Tried my hand at 40 yards today... And from the looks of things, i'm only 75% proficient at that range.. No problem, After a couple more practices i'll be ready for 50.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Axiom Posted July 27, 2013 Author Share Posted July 27, 2013 ^^^^^ Yea, well maybe have a sit down with your bud axiom. Cause that toolbag brought everything he gets on himself. And just what exactly do you think i'm getting?.. Insulted?... .. Not hardly bud... Amused yes, but insulted?.. Never.. Look man, i know you come over here riddled with battle scars from all the, shall we say, verbal jousting that occurred in the other forum And i fully uderstand deep wounds need time to heal, but please, please, though i personally dont mind anyone taking these ineffectual swings at me, it appears others do.. So please keep that in mind when you post... Thank you, and have a great day... Axiom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Faster Posted July 29, 2013 Share Posted July 29, 2013 Axiom, I see you are using the same arrow shafts as me (ics 340's right?)... I'm curious as to why, if you know, the bow shop set you up with them? I ask this, because we have similar bows (Mines a carbon element), and I hear people saying they are too light. But Ive used them on 2 bows now, both Hoyts, and killed over 20 deer with them without issue. Granted, I've never killed a deer with the Carbon Element, as I just bought it a couple months back. I'm just curious if the bow tech recommended them or gave you a reason for them. I like speed, and had issues with deer jumping the string with my older hoyt, so I chose them. But I was thinking of moving up to 400's. I'd welcome info from anyone else that has knowledge on this too, thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BowTechExperience Posted July 29, 2013 Share Posted July 29, 2013 (edited) Faster, just speaking generaly here, it is all about your draw weight, draw length, tip weight, total arrow length and cam design that will determine what spine arrows to choose. Also keep in mind a completed arrow at 5 grains per pound is the minimum at which a bow manufacturer will warranty your bow and that over 5 grains per pound is generally recommended for any big game hunting. Edited July 29, 2013 by BowTechExperience Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Axiom Posted July 29, 2013 Author Share Posted July 29, 2013 Axiom, I see you are using the same arrow shafts as me (ics 340's right?)... Correct.. i'm useing the same arrow.. I really dont know why i was set up with them.. Not sure if its because i was whinning about how much all this was costing me ( these arrows cost less than some of the other arrows ) or because they shoot the best from this bow. But the bow tech said these, coupled with 100 grain tips are my best bet.. Not the fastest set up.. with a 30 ", 60# draw i'm shooting 265fps.. To me that seems a little slow but, what do i know......... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BowTechExperience Posted July 29, 2013 Share Posted July 29, 2013 Axiom, what is your total arrow weight? I assume 30" represents your draw length, what is your total arrow length? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Axiom Posted July 29, 2013 Author Share Posted July 29, 2013 Yes 30" = Draw length.....Arrow length is 291/4" including the nock.. with the Target tip its 301/8"... I think the arrow is 9.3 gpi so that would come to 272 for the arrow shaft plus 100 grains for the tip = 372 grains total weight... but dont quote me on that ..LOL.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Faster Posted July 29, 2013 Share Posted July 29, 2013 So my stats are: 70# at 28" draw, with 28" arrow not including nock or head. I shoot 100gr heads. So with the formula of 28x9.3=260.4, 260.4+100=360.4, and then 360.4/70=5.148 That puts me just slightly above the lower limit. But does the weight of the nock and anchor for the head get included somewhere? Also where does draw length figure into it? Thanks for the help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BowTechExperience Posted July 29, 2013 Share Posted July 29, 2013 Axiom, your arrows are roughly cpmpleted with those 4 in vanes is 408 grains complete. Also take into consideration the rubber tubing on your peep, the peep, kisser button and loop all add weight to the string and will slow the the speed of the bow. Also cam timing plays a part in the speed because every cam has an optimized position where it is faster. Even the way you release your bow string on the shot can add or take away a few fps.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Faster Posted July 29, 2013 Share Posted July 29, 2013 http://www.goldtip.com/calculators.aspx This helped quite a bit for me, I ended up with about 5.87 grains per pound so long as i did it properly (which i believe I did) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucksnbows Posted July 29, 2013 Share Posted July 29, 2013 Some interesting info here on arrow weights. Matty from this site set me up, and I never asked too many questions. All I know is that he did a fine job and my Hoyt shoots great and kills deer. I learned early on not to shoot tight groups or risk repairing or replacing arrows. Instead, I take one shot at each small circle on my Blob target as if it were the only shot I was going to have on a booner that just walked into range. I have 9 two-inch circles painted on one side of my Blob and a deer's vitals painted on the other side. I'll have to calculate my arrow weight as that now interests me. https://www.troutscapes.com/ https://nativefishcoalition.org/national-board Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BowTechExperience Posted July 29, 2013 Share Posted July 29, 2013 (edited) http://www.goldtip.com/calculators.aspx This helped quite a bit for me, I ended up with about 5.87 grains per pound so long as i did it properly (which i believe I did) Faster, at 5.87 grains per pound, assuming this is your complete total arrow weight including nock, vanes, arrow shaft, insert and field point/broadhead at 70 lbs ( completed arrows should be weighed on a grain scale to be sure of total weight ) is at the light end of your spectrum and though is fine to shoot, you could be putting stress on things like your axles, string and cables. Your bow might be louder, a bit more vibration, and could slightly be a bit more touchy with broadheads. Also though the more you get away from the IBO specs ( 70 lbs, 30 draw 350 grain arrow ) of a bow on the shorter side of draw length the margin for lighter shafts becomes greater because as draw length gets shorter the bow is not putting out as much energy at 28" as it would at 30" .. Hope that makes sense..lol What kind of speed are you getting out of your set-up? Assuming your bow is tuned and shooting broadheads clean, you will not have a problem on whitetail sized animals unless you hit that shoulder. To figure out you kinetic energy, use this forumla: speed x speed x arrow weight divided by 450,240 and the result is your calculated kinetic energy and that is very important to penetration on anything. Here is a little chart I found online awhile ago: KINETIC ENERGY Hunting Usage Small Game (rabbit, groundhog, etc.) 25-41 ft. lbs. Medium Game (deer, antelope, etc.) 42-65 ft. lbs. Large Game (elk, black bear, wild boar, etc.) > 65 ft. lbs. Edited July 29, 2013 by BowTechExperience Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Faster Posted July 29, 2013 Share Posted July 29, 2013 BTE, yes, thanks for the explanation. I actually went to a friend's house before, thats an archery nut, and he had a scale for it. I brought a complete hunting arrow with me, from broadhead to lighted knock, and it weighed 421.5 grains which would be 6.02 grains per pound. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BowTechExperience Posted July 29, 2013 Share Posted July 29, 2013 You are welcome, now get crazy and weigh them all and see how much difference there is from one completed arrow to the next.... lol.. a good dozen completed finished arrows will not deviate more than 2-3 grains from arrow to arrow.. Good luck this season and if you have any other questions, fire away. Bucksnbows 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now