Rifle scope mounting ( is lapping necessary )

[birdshotnj]

Not needed ESPECIALLY if you have the aluminum tallys. You can potentially do more harm than good  

[Axiom]

.. Have some different POV's here.. Some yay, some nay... I checked Tally's warranty on their rings and they say its void if the rings are lapped.. But so what, if the rings need lapping then they need lapping.. I think what I should do is use a couple alignment bars and see if the rings are mounted true... And then go from there... As some pointed out, there are other options other than lapping.. That is, different rings, bed the rings.......But since I already have these rings, And I don't care if I void the warranty cause they aint costing me an arm and a leg,, I think i'll probably lap these if they don't align right and see how that works out...

[username]

Forget lapping, concentrate on leveling.  

 

You have to level everything, starting with the receiver, then the scope. Otherwise, you will fall victim to cant.

 

Then when you shoot, the rifle has to be held level.

 

There's no point in leveling the scope on a receiver that is not level, if you expect precision at mid-long ranges.  

 

Leveling Your Riflescope - a good read, I think this is what you need to know.

 

Rifle Cant and Canting - by Terry Hart

 

Canting Effect on Point of Impact 

 

... and of course you are shooting handloads verified by a ladder test and group size, correct?  

[Axiom]

 

and of course you are shooting handloads verified by a ladder test and group size, correct?  

 

 

 

.. well, no.... haven't thought about it... was planning on sticking with readily available factory loads..

[1957Buck]

All said and done Midway has Youtube videos on How to Lap and opinions on the Hows and Whys.

From what I saw the tools needed are not you Ace Hardware Variety. As many said do U really need to????

GoodLuck.  

[Axiom]

 

As many said do U really need to????

 

That's the question that needs to be answered... Every body has there own opinion on this.. And I have no reason to doubt any of them.. I don't need a competition quality rifle... But what I do need is a rifle/scope combo that is good enough to get a one shot kill from as far out as I can accurately shoot, on a target I may only see once in a lifetime... Mountain lion... And I aint talkin using dogs either..  

[Haskell_Hunter]

It depends on the gear.

 

Read this page about these rings.  If you haven't chosen your gear yet, why ask the question?

 

https://www.leupold.com/product-series/lrw-mounting-systems

Edited December 13, 2017 by Haskell_Hunter

[Axiom]

 

Read this page about these rings

 

 read what page?...

 

 

oh, ok...lol

Edited December 13, 2017 by Axiom

[Haskell_Hunter]

 read what page?...

 

Link added.

[username]

 

was planning on sticking with readily available factory loads..

 

 I don't need a competition quality rifle...

... a one shot kill from as far out as I can accurately shoot

... on a target I may only see once in a lifetime... Mountain lion...

 

Axiom,

Forget the lapping.  For you right now, it's lipstick on a pig.  There's so many other factors that are exponentially more important.  Concentrate on them.

 

(1) You should get some handloads.  If you cannot get to the range to do the tests, get a recipe, and use it.  

 

Factory loads are usually underpowdered and the variance between loads could, at 600ya, easily be the difference between a hit or miss.

 

Even if you use a generic load,  it will at least be consistent. You will not be chasing your tail due to factory slop. Hopefully, any variance in the handloads, being more consistent, will be clicked out.

 

(2) What kind of stock have you?  Is it free floated?  Check this video out - starts at about 1:00...

 

Some of the cheap plastic factory stocks have plastic nubs and the fore-end under the barrel - right where you do not want them.

 

You have to get rid of them, they'll destroy the harmonics of the barrel.  You'll struggle to find consistency at 600ya.

 

I haven't worked up a load for a 270 yet, that's next year.  However, I'd probably start with a Sierra Game King in 150gr.

 

After that, get to the range and get a few hundred rounds downrange within an moa or two.  At 600ya, that cat is going to look small. Accuracy is a must and at that distance, precision is too.

 

If I ever have the opportunity to go for a cat, and some day please God I will, I'd do more homework than ever and shoot hundreds, if not thousands, of rounds from the positions expected on game-day.

 

Lastly, better start saving your coppers for the mount...

Edited December 14, 2017 by username

[flat9999]

There is really NO good reason to not lap the rings on a new set-up; unless you consider a few dollars and about 15 minutes of your time to be more important than the confidence in knowing that you mounted your scope correctly. Just as important is torquing the screws to spec.

I did purchase the Wheeler kit many years back, and have used it many times, many times. My three most important observations from re-mounting several scopes for friends:

Unlapped rings always leave ring marks on a scope, those ring marks show just how little contact there is. Disclaimer- I haven't and probably will never use rings with "inserts".

Ring and base screws are always over-tightened when not installed using a torque driver.

Properly lapped, degreased, Loc-Tited, and torqued scope mounts just about never become loose.

[Axiom]

 

(1) You should get some handloads.  If you cannot get to the range to do the tests, get a recipe, and use it.  

 

 

 

 The thought of using hand loads does keep crossing my mind.. Especially when other people suggest it...  I think what I really need to do is get out and shoot the factory loads and see exactly what I got.. Then perhaps consider handloads .. or at least try them... 

 

 

Some of the cheap plastic factory stocks have plastic nubs

 

I aint having no gun with a plastic stock...  If it aint wood I wont touch it... That's non negotiable,,...

 

 

I did purchase the Wheeler kit 

 

 I did think about getting that kit but, i'm not really a rifle and scope hunter...once this scope is mounted it will probably never come off unless it breaks or proves to be useless... Probably have a gun smith mount it...