flat9999

Don't have much concern for lions or bears. Wolves are what get me puckered-up. Had a similar situation years ago in BC, where I saw some wolf tracks walking over another set of fresh tracks (mine from a few hours earlier).

Depends completely on what you plan to do with it. If it will be used as an SPR mainly, then you'll want higher magnification and a different reticle at the expense of weight and size. CQB inside of 300yds, you'd want something smaller, lighter and less magnification (probably a 1x8). IMO - I would probably be looking at brands like Steiner, Nightforce, Trijicon as opposed to Swaro and Zeiss for an AR-15.

For Rocky Mountain Bighorns, the price is closer to $50K. Still expensive, but that is for a guaranteed tag in Canada. For stateside hunts, you'd have to draw a tag (or buy a Governor's tag at auction). If you have a tag, then the hunt itself would cost $10-15K. Great pic, btw...

H&K has been using rollers in the actions for a really long time. Blaser has been using a straight-pull design for many years as well. There are no accuracy "tricks" with either of these designs. The Blaser benefited from being incredibly well made, accurate,modular, and with a really good safety mechanism. Not sure I'd be entirely comfortable with the Savage solution as your'e adding a lot of moving parts into an area that "should" be as uncomplicated as possible.

Hate the percentage game when it comes time to tip. They are basically saying that a guide that busts his ass on a $2000 hunt gets $400 and a slacker on a $20K hunt gets $4000. Ridiculous. Especially when some mid-west whitetail "guides" don't do much more than drive you to a stand in the AM and pick you up after dark. Pay what you think is fair for the work that the guide does. Same goes for cook/camp staff. For something like an 3-day antelope hunt, I would say that $200 to $400 is about right (for me). 5-day elk hunt, maybe $400 to $600 if the guide did his job (for me).

Just to be clear, China has spent more on swaying the course of this election cycle than Russia could have ever dreamed of. All this junk you keep hearing about Russian hacking is nonsense. Sure they do it, China does on a much larger scale, and the US may very well be leader in that realm. You seem to fall for the pitch lines that we constantly hear from the media. "Russian Hacking, Mail-in Ballots, "solar company" (not a solar company). Just like the term "gun control" was morphed into "gun safety" to make it more appetizing. "Universal mail-in voting" was turned into just "mail-in b

Outfitter tag lotteries generally have the outfitter submit an application on the hunters' behalf. Your'e probably talking about New Mexico here. The hunter would sign a contract with a licensed outfitter, the outfitter would apply for the hunters tag from a separate pool of reserved tags. Draw odds are usually better this way. Landowner tags are given to landowners by the state for use on their own property. There are different programs that (along with land size) determine how many tags the landowner receives. He then either sells or gives them to a guide for resale to the hunter.

As was mentioned above, when planning an adventure hunt, you really have to decide on what kind of experience your looking for. Things like difficulty level, price, trophy quality, weather, accommodations all play into your decision. There are quite a few states and even units within states that offer over-the-counter tags for elk hunts. Places like Montana, Idaho, Colorado and Wyoming are awesome, but they also have some really rugged areas and weather plays a huge factor. New Mexico, Arizona, Nevada have better weather (usually), but tags and hunts will be steeper. For a first ti

Used to be, when most scopes had turret caps, you would zero for ~MPBR. Weatherbys were usually 300yds, so that for most hunting situations, you could just hold dead on at to about ~340yds. With newer scopes, that you could dial reliably, setting zero and zero-stop to 100yds makes better sense. As long as you have good ballistic info (which you do), you could plug the numbers into a ballistic calculator and dial the correct elevation change for any zero you want. And definitely save your brass! Wby factory ammo uses some of the best brass available; and once-fired from your rifle w

Most of my Weatherby's shoot best between 2 and 20 shots after cleaning. My usual regimen is to site-in/check zero at my home range, clean the barrel and then fire 2 fouling shots. She's then ready to hunt with. Most of the time, I'd just use a Leupold boresighter to make sure nothing shifted when I get to my hunt location (flying), if driving, I just use as-is. Once season is over, I clean again thoroughly and put it away. It might go a year or two before I use it again. So the process repeats itself. I realize that it's pain doing it this way, but just something that makes me feel con

Good choice on rifle and caliber. I am a self-professed Weatherby fanboy (have the book and cartridge board to prove it). The CDS system is nice, but the biggest issue with them is that you might have to change the dials based on the elevation/temp that your'e hunting for the longer range shots; even if using the same load. The standard MOA dial with a cheat sheet works well for that. You could print your sheet based on the environmental variables. Just set the zero-lock on 100 yds and you're done, with the quality of scope that you have. As for ammo, word of advice - don't cheap-out. P

WTF is going on https://www.phillyvoice.com/camden-county-man-found-dead-joseph-bottino-homicide-pine-hill-hunting-reservation/?fbclid=IwAR0vNJqyCKbIXGplXpieVBIdbRgR4p93dd_11V55-fe6JwRKH0-nG5CYLgo

The only thing I miss about that store are the 100's of complaints of their terrible customer service on internet forums. Bought a few guns from them, and was always borderliine on whether or not I would walk-out on the deal because of the way they treated people.

Cooking part is fairly easy, and I've had the most success with the standard 250° slow cook a few hours and then jack it up to 500° to brown. Thermometer is the best way to get the correct doneness. Don't rely on time. Salt the night before, and let it rest in the fridge overnight uncovered. When cooking at really low temps, you will not get as much of a temp rise after you take it out of the oven. Approx. 5° only. Take it out early and let the oven reach 500°, then pop it back in to brown. Should be quick.

Upland boots usually have a shallower tread and much less support that big game boots. The reasoning is that you will usually be hunting on relatively flat ground, ie. not side hilling over shale. Walking comfort is what matters most. LL Bean - Insulated Upland Boots The old go-to for upland hunting were Browning and Cabelas Kangaroo boots, neither of which are made anymore (I think). I had the Cabela's model many years ago, and they were really easy-walking boots.