AccuTip ballistics - zero

[mazzgolf]

What is your slug-gun's zero when using AccuTips?

I was using CopperSolids, but I'm out of those and I have a bunch of AccuTips so I'm going to use those next.

I was zero'ed at 100. But I read online a lot of people recommend zero'ing at 50. I looked at the ballistics/path of the AccuTips (using Nikon's SpotOn website) and I like the 100 zero better. Not sure why people say to zero at 50.

Zero at 100 means you are also zeroed at 25, which is nice since I'm just as likely to see a deer at 25 as I am at 100. And aiming dead-on with any deer between 10 and 110 yards means the shot won't be off by more than an inch (high or low).

 

Looking at the slug path when zeroed at 50, I see there is only one dead-aim point at 50.  The 1-inch spread is limited to only between about 10 yards and 90 yards (compared to 10-110 above) - the slug drops to 2 inches at 100, 3 inches at 110, 4 to 120 (slug hasn't dropped 2 inches yet at 120 when zeroed at 100).

 

So for a slug gun zero'ed at 50, larger compensation has to be made when shooting out past 100+ yards compared to a zero-at-100, but there isn't much difference at close range between the two. So zero'ing at 100 seems to give an easier shot at longer ranges with no more or less difficulty at shorter ranges.

Seems correct, yes??

 

[SPEARFISH]

I zero for 100.  I have never shot a deer at a range longer than that in NJ.  Most shots I take are less than 50 and more like 20.

[buckfever1974]

For what it's worth, it doesn't look like much of a difference between 3" and 2 3/4" either.  Not sure of energy levels based on chart.

[Buck154]

I always did 25 yds for that reason. And then take one shot at 100 to check. 

[Gobblengrunt]

On all my guns, I never want a bullet impacting more than 1.5” high at any point.  I base my zero from there.  Usually ends up right at or about 100yard zero.

[mazzgolf]

8 minutes ago, buckfever1974 said:

For what it's worth, it doesn't look like much of a difference between 3" and 2 3/4" either.  Not sure of energy levels based on chart.

Yeah, I noticed that, too. I'll be sticking with 2 3/4" - doesn't look like paying the extra cost for 3" gets you much. Here's the energy chart:

 

[mattg1500]

I shoot for a 100yd 0 with my 220. I have a Nikon scope with the BDC and the Nikon Spot On is fairly close out to 200, which is as far as I have shot it. Its not dead nuts but its kill zone and repeatable. I use Strelok for everything usually. I went out and had my 220 and my muzzy with me and had a doe at what I guessed 155-160yd, she was just over a wall that I ranged at 152. I had the 220 on her but was not confident in the accutip at that range so I grabbed the cva and put a harvester right through her with ease. 

[Bucndoe]

Have your gun sighted a tad high at 50 and you are fine. Shotgun, rifle, muzzy, anything with a scope and you will be fine. Your target is 9 inch pie plate on deer. Unless of course you are looking for sheer technical accuracy in competitive shooting. For that, I digress to others

Edited December 13, 2018 by Bucndoe

[BHC]

I assume you're shooting a 12ga?

I would sight in to be 2.5" high at 50 yards

[Lungsonlvs]

I do 2.5 at 50 with my .20 with 2-3/4 Accutip Works great.

Edited December 13, 2018 by Lungsonlvs
Left out info

[archer36]

I don't think guys are using the 3" for added velocity or energy. The 3" supposedly is more accurate because the sabot does not have to jump 1/4" to reach the barrel. Can't say because I never tested it. But if you are using them for extra power then you are misinformed.