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Knife Sharpening


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39 minutes ago, Northjerseyoutdoorsman said:

Anyone ever use the Ken onion on an s30v blade? 

S30V can be easily sharpened by the Ken Onion.  That alloy has excellent sharpening characteristics, which is why it's a highly sought after blade material.  Expensive as heck, but you can beat the crap out of it.

Sapere aude.

Audeamus.

When you cannot measure, your knowledge is meager and unsatisfactory.

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38 minutes ago, Northjerseyoutdoorsman said:

Anyone ever use the Ken onion on an s30v blade? 

S30v is hard so you need something harder to sharpen it.  Do they make diamond belts for the work sharp?  

On the flip side, power tools cause intense amounts of heat, and could affect the hardness of the blade edge itself, sending you down the rabbit hole of having to constantly re-sharpen, thus making the edge softer, thus making you have to sharpen, etc.  

I would spend some time on some knife and blade forums before doing that.  You can also get some Japanese whetstones and sharpen hard steel the old fashioned way.  

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I cant help you find a place that will sharpen a knife for you because I dont use that service. However doing it yourself is far cheaper. I use knives all day every day for work and a razor edge is the only thing that works for me now. I find sharpening it manually gives the best blade, a motorized sharpener is okay to put a new blade onto your knife, bring it back to life from a very dull edge. But even after using our works motorized sharpener I always touch it up by hand using stones, steels, and ceramic, then for about a month I can use this blade by touching up with the steel and ceramic every few min. 

At home I dont go to this extreme but I do still hand sharpen. I use the lansky sharpening system and a steel for touch up. Takes about 2 min to sharpen with the lansky once you get the hang of it and its nice you can change your angle for different knife uses.  

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2 hours ago, not on the rug said:

S30v is hard so you need something harder to sharpen it.  Do they make diamond belts for the work sharp?  

On the flip side, power tools cause intense amounts of heat, and could affect the hardness of the blade edge itself, sending you down the rabbit hole of having to constantly re-sharpen, thus making the edge softer, thus making you have to sharpen, etc.  

I would spend some time on some knife and blade forums before doing that.  You can also get some Japanese whetstones and sharpen hard steel the old fashioned way.  

Couple of things:

S30V will wear out belts faster because of the hardness, but the belts provided will do the trick.  I always have spares lying around.

Also, yes, a power tool can create a lot of heat, but if that's what's happening to your blades as you sharpen them, you're doing it wrong (not you personally; in general).  The blade is steadily drawn across the moving belt so you don't create hot spots.  Belt speed is also variable, so you can run it slower if heat is an issue.

Sapere aude.

Audeamus.

When you cannot measure, your knowledge is meager and unsatisfactory.

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2 hours ago, not on the rug said:

S30v is hard so you need something harder to sharpen it.  Do they make diamond belts for the work sharp?  

On the flip side, power tools cause intense amounts of heat, and could affect the hardness of the blade edge itself, sending you down the rabbit hole of having to constantly re-sharpen, thus making the edge softer, thus making you have to sharpen, etc.  

I would spend some time on some knife and blade forums before doing that.  You can also get some Japanese whetstones and sharpen hard steel the old fashioned way.  

Thanks. I did read alot of knife forums on the subject and they all completely contradict each other .Who would have thunk it lol . Bought a benchmade hidden canyon hunter and I love it field dressed and skinned two deer so far and it's still super sharp. I think I'll stay away from using a work sharp on it don't want to ruin the heat treatment and defeat the purpose of investing in a high quality knife that holds an edge so well

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2 hours ago, Haskell_Hunter said:

Couple of things:

S30V will wear out belts faster because of the hardness, but the belts provided will do the trick.  I always have spares lying around.

Also, yes, a power tool can create a lot of heat, but if that's what's happening to your blades as you sharpen them, you're doing it wrong (not you personally; in general).  The blade is steadily drawn across the moving belt so you don't create hot spots.  Belt speed is also variable, so you can run it slower if heat is an issue.

I'd be curious to find out what the average temp is while using a worksharp and how it effects each type of common blade steel. 

1 hour ago, Northjerseyoutdoorsman said:

Thanks. I did read alot of knife forums on the subject and they all completely contradict each other .Who would have thunk it lol . Bought a benchmade hidden canyon hunter and I love it field dressed and skinned two deer so far and it's still super sharp. I think I'll stay away from using a work sharp on it don't want to ruin the heat treatment and defeat the purpose of investing in a high quality knife that holds an edge so well

I tend to gravitate towards Japanese knives in the kitchen, which have a high hrc.  I googled your knife and found it has a hrc of 58-60.  Many Japanese knives have an even higher hrc.  I'd never sharpen anything like that on a work sharp.  If you check out chefknivestogo.com and japanesechefsknife.com, they both have a great selection of stones and Mark at chefknivestogo is a wealth of knowledge.   Talk to him and maybe he can recommend you a stone setup for your knife.  There is even a forum you can check out on that site

Edited by not on the rug
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11 minutes ago, not on the rug said:

I'd be curious to find out what the average temp is while using a worksharp and how it effects each type of common blade steel. 

The temp is very low, otherwise the band would break.  That's going to fail before anything happens to the blade due to heat.  You'd need to exceed a couple hundred degrees to even start creating issues with the metal.

Data sheet:  https://www.hudsontoolsteel.com/technical-data/steelCPMS30V

Treat it like 440C or D2 when sharpening.

Over the holidays I'll do a non-scientific test of a few blades and the temp.  I have a thermal temp reader that I can use on the belt and blade.

Edited by Haskell_Hunter

Sapere aude.

Audeamus.

When you cannot measure, your knowledge is meager and unsatisfactory.

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