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Any HVAC people here or can one be recommended.  Green Township area.  My central AC has been running for a few hours now with no appreciable change in temperature reduction.  I am thinking a freon recharge or new condenser (one I have is really old).

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Coincidentally, the guy whose email I sent you about the hawks is an HVAC guy.  He'll be installing central air for us when I finally cave and agree to it. 

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Check and see if the fan in the condenser is spinning fast enough. There is a capacitor in the condenser that may need to be replaced.

 

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I had the same issue as JimC last year.  Replaced the capacitor which was only a couple of bolts and 2 wires I believe and I was back in business.  I knew that it had gone bad because the top of it had bulged out considerably compared to the one on my other unit that was right next to it.  It was a $10 part from GPS.

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I use Glen Garafano from Air Control. He is in Hardyston, fixes it correctly the first time & is honest.

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52 minutes ago, Integracingsr said:

I had the same issue as JimC last year.  Replaced the capacitor which was only a couple of bolts and 2 wires I believe and I was back in business.  I knew that it had gone bad because the top of it had bulged out considerably compared to the one on my other unit that was right next to it.  It was a $10 part from GPS.

I've had that happen too, the telltale bulge.

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Problem is new condenser you can’t get a r22 condenser any more, so you’d have to go to 407c or 410a. 410a flush lines need a new evaporator also.

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Also a bad condenser fan motor, compressor goes off on high head so doesn’t run long enough to cool. There’s a million things between bad thermostat, bad contactor could be anything. 

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Precision Heating & AC is owned by a guy that posted often on NJH, and involved in NJSFSC in Sussex County. Hackettstown Oil recommends him. But, I never did anything with him. Good luck.

Steve ..... 973 398 6600

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Do yourself a favor and temporarily  remove or replace  the filter before you call anyone.

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Posted (edited)

refrigeration in general especially simple residential splits the problem can generally be divided into 3 categories 

 

1) Mechanical/Electrical  Ex. Dual cap/Run Cap, Grounded Compressor(might trip breaker or blow line voltage fuses if you have a fused disconnect) An actual Bad Condenser fan Motor(usually the cap will go first) Bad Indoor blower motor or run cap(do you feel air coming from your registers?)  Low voltage wise bad T-stat, coil on your contractor, lost your 24v (air handler lost power) or 2wire some how got nicked. All though you stated you have an old system some boards have 3-5amp ATC Fuses some have fused transformers with resettable fuses....

2) Air side. Again, is the indoor/evap motor running? Plugged Filter....plugged evap coil(ice  or lint/dirt/particulate)Anything blocking your return air? 

3) refrigeration: notice any frost or ice on the suction line at the condenser? Discharge line warm? Suction line cold(similar to a beer can) notice any oil on or around the condenser or line set(ref leak) although unlikely depending on your metering device fixed Orifice or TXV there could be a restriction TXV bulb lost contact TXV is malfunctioning(not responding to spring or build pressure) do you have a sight glass or liquid line drier? Bubbles in the sight glass could be a sign of leak or restrictions Liquid Line Drier can get restricted..... A lot of these a good technician will assess by doing both superheat and sub cooling if refrigerant loss or other issue isn’t obvious.....

Do you see any condensate? 

Edited by Swampy

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Capacitors go bad sometimes, but I’ve changed a ton of condenser fan motors, I’ve seen fan blades fall off, even shafts rust through. There could be a dirty condensing unit, I highly doubt it has high or low pressure switches though. So a unit that repeatedly goes off on high head will more than likely end up with a bad compressor or a damaged compressor. If he has a leak that sucks a drum of R22 is up to like $600 something. Then you figure a company marks up if he needs a few pounds.

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Even though it’s easy enough to change a capacitor I really don’t recommend somebody that doesn’t have any electrical experience or knowledge start sticking their hands around anything even if you’re pull the disconnect or the breaker it’s just not recommended.

 

 But if you suspect it’s the dual capacitor (And yes the telltale bulge but not always) Try to keep your microfarads the same probably a 35/5 or there about....But I would suggest stepping up from a 370VAC to a 440VAC it’s more robust.

For an older system like yours you can also look into a start assist which could be added relatively easy Supco makes one.

 

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Well I’m not saying to stick his hands anywhere, he shouldn’t check a capacitor unless he’s discharged it and should also own a meter and a capacitor checker . I live right in hackettstown but I’m not free this weekend. I’ve been doing hvac the last 9 years out of 274. Companies are crooks he needs someone doing sidework in my opinion.  I think is funny when people suggest checking all sorts of stuff. It’s not rocket science but you need to understand the sequence of operation and be good at trouble shooting. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve had to fix call backs from hacks out there. And how butchered units get from guys that think they know what they’re doing. 

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Appreciate all the responses.  I have a guy coming - father-in-law of a poster here............

I'm only handy with a hammer.  I did look outside after a while and saw that the fan was not spinning, but there was air (not cold) flowing though the system.

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Even though it’s easy enough to change a capacitor I really don’t recommend somebody that doesn’t have any electrical experience or knowledge start sticking their hands around anything even if you’re pull the disconnect or the breaker it’s just not recommended.
 
 But if you suspect it’s the dual capacitor (And yes the telltale bulge but not always) Try to keep your microfarads the same probably a 35/5 or there about....But I would suggest stepping up from a 370VAC to a 440VAC it’s more robust.
For an older system like yours you can also look into a start assist which could be added relatively easy Supco makes one.
 
Any homeoner can say start capacitor until its a bad transformer in your air handler.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

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23 minutes ago, BCsaw said:

Any homeoner can say start capacitor until its a bad transformer in your air handler.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

Guess you don’t read much .....

 

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