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Scope question


PV216

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Got a question for you guys. I've always used slug gun/muzzleloader specific scopes for my muzzleloader or slug gun. What would happen if you put a regular rifle scope on a muzzy or slug gun?

 

I've researched it and found some people say it's no problem, and other people say the recoil would break the rifle scope.

 

Example: can you put a leupold vx-1 on a slug gun? Or does it have to be the "slug gun" leupold scope?

"The tree of liberty must be refreshed from time to time with the blood of patriots and tyrants." Thomas Jefferson

gun-1_zpsa5b2d7e3.png

 

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I have a VX-1 on my rifle and never had a problem.  My rifle is a 300 ultra mag with a hell of a punch.  I think it would be fine on any shotgun or muzzy. Just my opinion I am not an expert.  

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It's not a problem.  A well constructed scope is just that, well constructed.  Cheap is cheap.  The principal difference between a "muzzy/slug" scope and a "rifle" scope is the parallax setting.  The former is typically set at 50 or 75 yards.  The latter 100 to 150 yards.

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Thanks guys. These are the same things I'm reading online. I might be buying a savage 220 and I'd like to put leupold on it but I'm not sure if I need the "shotgun scope" or not.

"The tree of liberty must be refreshed from time to time with the blood of patriots and tyrants." Thomas Jefferson

gun-1_zpsa5b2d7e3.png

 

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What would happen if you put a regular rifle scope on a muzzy or slug gun?

 

First question: what's the warrantee on the scope? ;-)

 

Any modern scope should be fine. 

 

I have used Burris Fullfield II's on my ML and 870 with no problems.

 

Neither a ML or slug gun kick enough to hurt modern glass.  Also, it's really not the kick that is the problem.

 

Big guns with muzzle breaks and even smaller spring guns were culprits in killing glass in the old days due to the way they shook the scope.

 

A push back, during the shot, or a push forward, during the shot is not a problem. However, when you combine a push back and forward within a single shot, the "jerk" is tough on glass.

 

When a big gun with a break first shoots a bullet, the rifle is pushed back.  However, the gasses very quickly reach the end of the barrel and push the rifle forward.  Again, this jerk was a glass killer back in the old days.

 

I have a Night Force on my 50 with close to 1000 rounds fire with no problems.  However, all of the guys I shoot with tell me all scopes eventually break on 50's.

 

Having a dedicated reticle for a ML or SG is a nice feature.  But probably unnecessary.  Most people have more than enough accuracy and don't need the precision of such a reticle.

 

With either firearm, you're not likely to be shooting far enough to need holdover.  Get a 100ya zero and anything in range gets the center.

 

Buy what makes you happy, don't abuse it, and if there's any problem, most companies will fix it free.

 

Let us know how much you want to spend.  I have everything from a Tasco to a March.  

 

Don't forget, there's always free shipping at OpticsPlanet and a 5% coupon code.  On holidays they run a 10% code and they price match.

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First question: what's the warrantee on the scope? ;-)

 

Any modern scope should be fine.

 

I have used Burris Fullfield II's on my ML and 870 with no problems.

 

Neither a ML or slug gun kick enough to hurt modern glass. Also, it's really not the kick that is the problem.

 

Big guns with muzzle breaks and even smaller spring guns were culprits in killing glass in the old days due to the way they shook the scope.

 

A push back, during the shot, or a push forward, during the shot is not a problem. However, when you combine a push back and forward within a single shot, the "jerk" is tough on glass.

 

When a big gun with a break first shoots a bullet, the rifle is pushed back. However, the gasses very quickly reach the end of the barrel and push the rifle forward. Again, this jerk was a glass killer back in the old days.

 

I have a Night Force on my 50 with close to 1000 rounds fire with no problems. However, all of the guys I shoot with tell me all scopes eventually break on 50's.

 

Having a dedicated reticle for a ML or SG is a nice feature. But probably unnecessary. Most people have more than enough accuracy and don't need the precision of such a reticle.

 

With either firearm, you're not likely to be shooting far enough to need holdover. Get a 100ya zero and anything in range gets the center.

 

Buy what makes you happy, don't abuse it, and if there's any problem, most companies will fix it free.

 

Let us know how much you want to spend. I have everything from a Tasco to a March.

 

Don't forget, there's always free shipping at OpticsPlanet and a 5% coupon code. On holidays they run a 10% code and they price match.

Thanks for all the info! I'm looking around 200$ maybe a leupold vx-1

3-9x40. I've owned leupolds before and they always did the job for me.

"The tree of liberty must be refreshed from time to time with the blood of patriots and tyrants." Thomas Jefferson

gun-1_zpsa5b2d7e3.png

 

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For a Shotgun or Muzzleloader I would go with a 2-7. Cheaper and you won't need to shoot any further than around 100-150  yards. Plenty of power if you need it.

 

I have a Bushnell Elite 3200 2-7 on my Omega. I like it because of it's light gathering ability at dusk and dawn. The 3200 was made for foul weather. Looking through the scope on a cloudy, rainy, day it gathers light to brighten things up. It does the same thing on clear days. I have never had the need for more power.

Sent from my flip phone with the big buttons so I can see them

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