Bully 92 Posted August 29 I know, I know... Beat to death topic BUT one that is currently relevant to me. I am purchasing my first longbow from Charles at Two Tracks. It will be: Ogemaw 56" #45 125gn field points and broadheads I draw around 27" Purposes will be stress release/plinking in the yard and a late season hunt or two where I may or may not take a shot. It will all depend on my early season exploits. From my reading I am looking at a 500 spine carbon or a 1916 aluminum shaft. I think those numbers are right but I'm more than happy to be told otherwise if that's necessary. I'm also happy to add brass inserts to get myself up to 450-500 grain total arrow weight. I'm not too keen on wood as they require a bit more care than I care to take. Hoping that the sages of the board will weigh in and help me out. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hammer4reel 5,411 Posted August 29 I would recommend gold tip traditional shafts with brass inserts . Cut them up to 2" longer than your normal draw length and bare shaft cutting if necessary to correct the spine. 45# you should be able to shoot 500 spine. They are pretty durable and allow better fine tuning . 1916 have always been a bastard size aluminum also. Many times tough to find true to size components 2 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bully 92 Posted August 29 42 minutes ago, hammer4reel said: I would recommend gold tip traditional shafts with brass inserts . Cut them up to 2" longer than your normal draw length and bare shaft cutting if necessary to correct the spine. 45# you should be able to shoot 500 spine. They are pretty durable and allow better fine tuning . 1916 have always been a bastard size aluminum also. Many times tough to find true to size components Thank you. Ill hit up a local to me shop and see what they have floating around. If nothing catches my eye I’ll resort to the web. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
toxo 735 Posted August 29 There's Nothing like the smell of a broken Cedar shaft! 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TDietz 439 Posted August 29 I'm not familiar with bow, if it's close to or is centershot the more you can go by spine table recommendations, if not you'll need a shaft that will flex more during archers paradox, lighter spine in other words. Wood usually break right behind the point, sharpen it back up and hot melt another point on. As the shaft gets shorter you can go to 145 gr. head and still get decent arrow flight. If you go with carbons, I went with Goldtip, pick a brand and stick with it because all the components are interchangeable through all spines, inside diameter stays the same Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bully 92 Posted August 30 21 hours ago, hammer4reel said: 1916 have always been a bastard size aluminum also. Many times tough to find true to size components Just wondering what you mean by this? I'm not all that familiar with the whole arrow thing. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hunterbob1 2,654 Posted August 30 16 minutes ago, Bully said: Just wondering what you mean by this? I'm not all that familiar with the whole arrow thing. Personally,traditional bow,traditional cedar shafts.If you don't know arrows you definitely need to go to a shop.Dan meant aluminum arrow.2013 better choice. https://www.google.com Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bully 92 Posted August 30 11 minutes ago, hunterbob1 said: Personally,traditional bow,traditional cedar shafts.If you don't know arrows you definitely need to go to a shop.Dan meant aluminum arrow.2013 better choice. https://www.google.com Pass on the cedar. I understand he meant an aluminum arrow. I'm just wondering what he meant call it a "bastard size". That's all. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hunterbob1 2,654 Posted August 30 Bastard...., abnormal shape or irregular size. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hammer4reel 5,411 Posted August 30 10 minutes ago, Bully said: Pass on the cedar. I understand he meant an aluminum arrow. I'm just wondering what he meant call it a "bastard size". That's all. 1916 is a 19/64" arrow with a 16 thousands wall . It wasn't a commonly used arrow . In that size shaft both 13 and 14 thousands walls were what was commonly used . 16 thousands walls really didn't get used as much until you hit a 20/64" shaft sizes . Due to the way arrows flex the thick wall on a thin shaft was harder to tune . A few guys shooting target archery shot them .hoping the heavier walls would hold up better to the constant right groups shot . Instead Easton made the more durable X7 shafts (stronger alloy) in a 1914 shaft that was the most commonly used . . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bully 92 Posted August 30 6 minutes ago, hammer4reel said: 1916 is a 19/64" arrow with a 16 thousands wall . It wasn't a commonly used arrow . In that size shaft both 13 and 14 thousands walls were what was commonly used . 16 thousands walls really didn't get used as much until you hit a 20/64" shaft sizes . Due to the way arrows flex the thick wall on a thin shaft was harder to tune . A few guys shooting target archery shot them .hoping the heavier walls would hold up better to the constant right groups shot . Instead Easton made the more durable X7 shafts (stronger alloy) in a 1914 shaft that was the most commonly used . . Thank you for the explanation. Much appreciated. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
toxo 735 Posted August 30 (edited) If you go aluminum go with a full metal jacket shaft. I would go with carbon,more durable. Start with a long bare shaft and the point weight that you will use,cutting an inch off each time you shoot it until you get the bare shaft to stick in the target straight. That would be the arrow for your bow. Edited August 30 by toxo 1 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bully 92 Posted August 31 (edited) 22 hours ago, toxo said: If you go aluminum go with a full metal jacket shaft. I would go with carbon,more durable. Start with a long bare shaft and the point weight that you will use,cutting an inch off each time you shoot it until you get the bare shaft to stick in the target straight. That would be the arrow for your bow. Thank you for that. Much appreciated. I would love to find a carbon that is 500ish. Something that can easily build a 450ish grain arrow. And costs around $7 a piece. Probably a bit of a unicorn. Edited August 31 by Bully Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bully 92 Posted August 31 FWIW, this is the bowyer I'm using. I didn't realize it was charles until this morning. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OyvqniV-sOQ Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hammer4reel 5,411 Posted August 31 1 hour ago, Bully said: Thank you for that. Much appreciated. I would love to find a carbon that is 500ish. Something that can easily build a 450ish grain arrow. And costs around $7 a piece. Probably a bit of a unicorn. Buy gold tip trad shafts , 100 grain brass inserts and fletch with feathers. cut to 30” shafts would weigh 258 100 grain inserts, 125 head, 20 grains nock and feathers puts you right at 503. if you buy blemished shafts can buy them for about half of what normal price is 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites