Choosing a utility trailer

[BowhunterNJ]

I don't think I'll ever get away from owning an SUV and getting large materials with an SUV sucks or just isn't possible, so I'm thinking about getting a utility trailer for a variety of tasks:

• Picking up project supplies:  plywood, framing, decking, sheetrock, etc
• Hauling garbage to the dump (project scraps, cleanups, etc)
• Hauling firewood
• Haul a quad at some point

I'd imagine getting something that either already has sidewalls or can be added/built would be a good idea.  Similarly, I'm guessing to handle full sheets of plywood or sheetrock, I'll need to get at least a 5x10.  Outside of firewood, I'm guessing most of these tasks are pretty "lightweight" and not really putting a lot of stress on anything.

What do you think? 

 

[JHbowhunter]

nothing wrong with a good utility trailer and 5x10 is great size, can haul quads, mowers, fit 4-5 yards of mulch and everything else you mentioned.   5x8 is fine too...

[Haskell_Hunter]

Sounds like a good plan.  Just don't buy a 6-cyl vehicle and try to pawn it off as a truck.

[JHbowhunter]

1 minute ago, Haskell_Hunter said:

Sounds like a good plan.  Just don't buy a 6-cyl vehicle and try to pawn it off as a truck.

how many pounds of torque does your man-truck have again?

[hammer4reel]

I have both a 5X8 and A 6X12.

i like the bigger trailer a lot more.

it runs better empty than the 5x8 does . Is def easier to see  backing up etc.

i have heavy floors on both,

‘as if  you drop off a lawn mover or atv etc the ride home can. Get ugly when a light trailer bounces up over a bump..

‘for the extra few hundred it gets a lot more use, and will  fit aside by side comfortably.

.

 

[hammer4reel]

1 minute ago, JHbowhunter said:

how many pounds of torque does your man-truck have again?

Jack that’s just funky math they use to make  the 6 feel like it has torque.

lets hook your new truck up to my truck that has 325000 on it and see who pulls the wheels off the other lol

[Haskell_Hunter]

1 minute ago, JHbowhunter said:

how many pounds of torque does your man-truck have again?

Is your vehicle a boat or helicopter?  Not sure why you need so much rotational force.

Where you're going to see the difference is when you start hauling up a hill.  Your vehicle will downshift while mine is passing you.

I think the most civil way to resolve this is a good 'ole tractor pull between your vehicle and my truck.  Next get-together at Jay's will include our tractor pull.

[Greg]

For trailers, buy next size up than what you need.

[hammer4reel]

Just now, Haskell_Hunter said:

Is your vehicle a boat or helicopter?  Not sure why you need so much rotational force.

Where you're going to see the difference is when you start hauling up a hill.  Your vehicle will downshift while mine is passing you.

I think the most civil way to resolve this is a good 'ole tractor pull between your vehicle and my truck.  Next get-together at Jay's will include our tractor pull.

Hey I already challenged him to that

[Haskell_Hunter]

Just now, hammer4reel said:

Hey I already challenged him to that

I'll take winner.  So it'll be you and me.   

[JHbowhunter]

5 minutes ago, Haskell_Hunter said:

I'll take winner.  So it'll be you and me.   

yeah well my d### is bigger than both yours put together

[dlist777]

18 minutes ago, BowhunterNJ said:

I don't think I'll ever get away from owning an SUV and getting large materials with an SUV sucks or just isn't possible, so I'm thinking about getting a utility trailer for a variety of tasks:

• Picking up project supplies:  plywood, framing, decking, sheetrock, etc
• Hauling garbage to the dump (project scraps, cleanups, etc)
• Hauling firewood
• Haul a quad at some point

I'd imagine getting something that either already has sidewalls or can be added/built would be a good idea.  Similarly, I'm guessing to handle full sheets of plywood or sheetrock, I'll need to get at least a 5x10.  Outside of firewood, I'm guessing most of these tasks are pretty "lightweight" and not really putting a lot of stress on anything.

What do you think? 

 

6 feet wide is a better option in my opinion.  It's usually just about the exact width of your tow vehicle so very easy to drive, backup, etc.  and still gives you some more space.  Aluminum is worth the price so you don't have a rusting hulk in a few years.  6x10 or 6x12 are very easy to haul.  

[BowhunterNJ]

Thanks gents!  6x12 is what I had my eye on to give me a little more room.

Next up is brands and framing type (tube, angle, etc)?  Or does it really matter for what I'll be hauling?  I guess the question is, what "specs" should I be focusing on other than just the size?

[dlist777]

6 minutes ago, BowhunterNJ said:

Thanks gents!  6x12 is what I had my eye on to give me a little more room.

Next up is brands and framing type (tube, angle, etc)?  Or does it really matter for what I'll be hauling?  I guess the question is, what "specs" should I be focusing on other than just the size?

GVWR of trailer.  Make sure your tow vehicle can pull it when fully loaded.  

Payload of the trailer (GVWR of trailer minus empty weight).  Aluminum will have higher due to lower empty weight.  This is how much crap you can haul.  Is this enough?

Available payload in your tow vehicle.  As a rule of thumb, take the GVWR of trailer x 15% and this will be your tongue weight.  Does your tow vehicle have enough available payload to handle this weight?  Is your ball and hitch rated for greater than this weight?  

Do you need brakes or not?  In PA if GVWR is less than 3k lbs, you don't need separate trailer brakes.  Not sure NJ rules.  But, if you need brakes you'll have to have a 7 pin hook up and a brake controller in your tow vehicle for electric brakes.  Or, you can go with surge brakes which I don't really like, but they enable you to use different tow vehicles that don't have a brake controller.  With no brakes you'll only need a 4 pin hookup for lights. 

Otherwise, I like to see no exposed wiring and sealed lights to avoid rust and water infiltration later.  Good 1/2 inch or 3/4 inch floor that is pressure treated and in good condition.  

Edited March 29, 2019 by dlist777

[dlist777]

I've owned a lot of trailers.....

Two other things to consider:  single axle vs. tandem.  Tandem is a bit safer since a flat won't be as big an issue.  I don't usually worry about it too much...I've owned both and drove for tens of thousands of miles and never had an issue but some worry about this.  Of course, your main maintenance is brakes (if applicable) and re-packing the bearings so tandem is going to be a bit more work than single.    Your 6x10's are probably all single.  6x12's probably come in both versions.

Type:  If you have ATVs, some trailers have a flexible ramp system where you can load from the rear or the sides (to fit 2 ATVs instead of 1).  Not sure if that's an issue.  I had one like that that had removable sides so I could put the sides on when I was just hauling crap or remove when I wanted to load 4 wheelers.  If you don't go 4 wheeling a rear load with permanent sides is fine.  

 

Edited March 29, 2019 by dlist777