Do it yourself Fletching tools

[Axiom]

I bought a dozen arrows about a month or so ago and so far every one of them has had to be re-fletched..  Costing 3 or 4 bucks per arrow aint that big of an expense for me and I’d just as well pay it rather than do it myself…  However, considering it takes me about an hour and a half to run them to the shop and then pick them up, I think it would be more time efficient to “do it myself ”… And since the tools needed to do the work seem to be below $50, I’d save money as well… So, does anyone recommend a fletching tool or anything else I might need?.. I’m leaning towards a Bitzenburger.. Any advantage to using double sided tape vs. Glue?... Any input would be helpful..  

[Matty]

Make sure that whatever jig you get, it can handle the vanes and arrow diameter. Most are pretty universal, but some can't easily do short vanes and or very small diameter shafts. And others, that's all they can do.

 

A grayling jig is basically the same as a bitz or jojan, but cheaper. It's made out of a plastic, but can be dipped into acetone to clean it up.

 

Even faster and more fool-proof are the arizona ez-fletchers. Same deal with the plastic and acetone clean up. Though you'll be limited to one distance for fletching to nock since its pretty much non-adjustable in where you're placing the fletchings in the arm, seated all the way back is usually the best placement for this jig. However, you can make a ton of very consistent arrows, very quickly. You can also get different arms for it to fletch different helicals, offsets, etc.

 

Only ever used the double sided tape for flu-flus and it holds up, but for everything else..... Saunders NPV glue is great. I know a lot of people use the instant gels and glues, but I prefer the flexible bond the regular glue provides. It takes longer to set, but is more durable and holds up longer from what I've found.

 

Two more quick tips would be:

 

- Dab a dot of glue at the front and back of each vane after they are fletched. This helps prevent peeling.

 

- Never underestimate the importance of making sure the vane base and arrow shaft (or wrap/crest) are clean before gluing.

[Axiom]

Never underestimate the importance of making sure the vane base and arrow shaft (or wrap/crest) are clean before gluing.

 

 

 

  Acetone or Alcohol for carbon arrows?.. I read somewhere acetone MAY break down carbon fibers but the guy who wrote it said he wasnt sure..

[Matty]

I've used ivory soap (same stuff I use to lube up my arrows for easier pulling from foam targets) and denatured alcohol.

 

For wraps, I use soap and water and then make sure they are thoroughly dry.

[Cousin Brown]

Blitz is a great fletching tool. I use a JoJan and been extremely happy with it. Either one you can't go wrong with. Also great advise from Matty.

[jerseyhunter]

I think your right about the acetone.  Don't do much fletching but when I do I use the Blitz.

[nycredneck]

Been using my Bitz for years with feathers and vanes, but I will use a Helix jig for my blazer vanes, they all work great and you will be happy your doing it your way. Good luck and try to have fun with it, use arrow wraps, dont rush, use good glue (goat tuff), pick fun colors.

[BowTechExperience]

Fletching arrows is a personal thing for me and I enjoy doing it, like sharpening a good steel blade. Take your time and develope a system. It gives me satisfaction in knowing it is done right. 

 

I've been using the same Bitz for over 25 years. A Bitzenburger is a buy once type product because it will last a life time. Glue build-up on the clamp  can be scraped off with a dull blade without ruininng your clamp. No need for tape strips. My Bitz works on every shaft size out there from the telephone pole size indoor arrows to the micro shaft outdoor arrows.

 

Fletching your own shafts is a rewarding task. You can control every element of the process from where you put your fletching to the degree of off-set, left or right helical or a striaght off-set..

 

I myself fletch wrapped and non wrapped shafts. I use the Loctite Professional glue for my vanes and Bohning Fletchtite Titanium on feathers.

 

Assuming a bare shaft that has been stripped already:

 

Shaft prep on a non wrapped shaft begins with a little Ajax and one of those Scotch-Bright pads. Then I rinse with cold water and let the shafts air dry. Once dry, place the fletching in the clamp at the desired distance from the nock receiver. Run a solid bead of Fletchtite on the base of your fletching and place the clamp on the jig and lightly press down and hold it for about a minute, BUT do not pull off the clamp for 15 minutes at least.. Repeat two more times. Let each fletch dry for about 15 minutes before going to the next. The same process above is also what I do for a wrapped shaft except I do not scrub the back of the arrow if using wraps. There is no need honestly. I have not had a problem with fletching pulling or falling off if using good glue.

 

Now,

Shaft prep for an arrow with vanes is similar in that I do the Ajax prep, but use Loctite Professional grade glue.

A wrapped shaft need not be cleaned. If it makes you more comfortable, put a little denatured alcohol on a small clean rag and wipe down the back of the wraped shaft and let air dry.

 

Depending on the vanes you use, most Do Not require that the base of the vane be cleaned. I use and love Blazers. These don't need cleaning so I basically put a vane in my clamp, run a solid bead down the base, blot the vane lightly on a paper towel to remove excess glue and put the clamp on the jig press down, count to 10 and move onto the next. The super glue dries extremely fast but is not completely cured, but solid enough to fletch one after the other but do not shoot them for al least 2 hours.

 

Once an arrow is complete I do an extra bead on all of the feather or vane tips to prevent peel back as Matty said.

 

These are my techniques I use and it works for me. Everyone has a favorite glue or vane, just use quality products and ask away if you run into a snag.

Edited August 22, 2013 by BowTechExperience

[Axiom]

Thanks Gents... I think i'll go with the Bitz.. I dont think i'll use the wraps. Seems like an unneeded step in the whole process.. Not sure where wrapping would be advantageous enough to make it worth doing

 

Since fletching seems to be the most complicated and time consuming part of building an arrow, I might as well build the whole thing while i'm at it.. And so thats what i'm going to do from now on... build my own arrows from scratch...

[hunterbob1]

 

I think i'll go with the Bitz

left or right helical or straight? OR just get the whole kit an caboodle slip on"s and stop shooting the same spot damn it......http://www.biggamehunt.net/blogs/gear-review/bohning-blazer-shrink-fletch-review...

 

There are also not as many vane options available with shrink fletch. Currently Bohning is only offering the Blazer vanes in their Neon and Tiger stripe versions in two inch only.

this was 2011 that all changed now!...http://www.newarchery.com/products/3/vanes/.........20 buck's 1/2 doz.....jig $80 glue $8 vanes $30

Edited August 22, 2013 by hunterbob1

[Axiom]

right helical amd straight, bob...  I dont know about that heat shrink stuff.. something seems unartistic about them...lol

[hunterbob1]

ok didn't know if you knew of them.Iv'e never used em but ralph did em on his crossbow arrows no problem,and his job doesn't give him much spare time.I'm with you been doin my own for decades I have the bitz.Takes alotta time but hey it's relaxing,fun and rewarding when you recover one all bloody.In time just keep buying a few more clamps and you can do more faster if you prefer.

Edited August 22, 2013 by hunterbob1

[Matty]

Wraps are advantageous for a few reasons.

 

- They make removing the old fletchings (when time to refletch/repair) a lot easier, with zero possibility for damage to the shafts. Scraping worn or damaged vanes off carbon arrows can be a pain. If you do a great job of gluing on your vanes, they should be damn hard to get them off....So removing them when they are damaged is very time consuming. Getting all the glue residue off sucks. However, dipping a wrapped arrow in warm water and then peeling it off with all the vanes attached is much easier.

 

- Makes your arrows more visible. Pass through the deer or miss? You can probably find your arrow a lot easier if you have a nice bright wrap in addition to your bright vanes. Several companies have an assortment of highly visible colors, including florescent and even reflective wraps.

 

- They look cool.

 

I actually started testing the bohning shrink wrap vanes last year or the year before. This year I've switched over to them entirely simply because they save me so much time and allow me to make "field repairs" very quickly at a hunting camp. Boil water, dip, shoot.

 

You can't get all custom with them, but for time savings, they can't be beat, and they hold up every bit as well as the best jig-fletched arrows.

[Axiom]

Yeah bob i do find things more rewarding when i do it myself.. Time doesnt always allow for that though

 

 

Those florescent wraps do sound interesting matty.. I just had nockturnals put on three of my arrows cause i dont particularly care to spend hours looking for them in the woods and i hate loseing any when i have a $10 broad head on'um.... might not be a bad idea to wrap a few  and give it a try...

Edited August 22, 2013 by Axiom

[hunterbob1]

 

Those florescent wraps do sound interesting matty

For year's before lighted nock's,I cut little strip's of reflective tape an use it as a wrap.put it on my stand too.Ever get down a tree in the pitch black and start lookin for blood and then say hey where was my tree? flashlight picks it up great put it on my flashlight too.Never lost anything anymore.Get it in home depot.oops gotta hit that one with the blow dryer lol