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I'm ready to hunt.................


BowTechExperience

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I've been shooting my Experience on and off for a few weeks recently mainly because I have been concentrating most of my shooting time with my Specialist because of league participation and a couple local events. Well for me the "Dot" shooting is now over and it is "go time" for the hunting rig. The bow was tuned at the shop when I bought a few months ago, cam sync, wheel lean, center shot and nocking point were all done. The bow shot paper very nicely with fletched shafts and has been grouping great. Nock smashing tight groups. So I'm confident in my shooting and put on several 100 grain Slick Trick 1 1/8' magnums. At 20 yards they are spot on center mass. At 30 I was grouping oh so slightly right of center maybe 1/2 to 3/4". 40 yards would be a kill shot for sure but still walking right. 50 was well about 2"right and 6" high.

 

So Friday night I decide to strip an arrow and bare shaft it through paper. I'm a believer in paper, some are not..To each their own. It is about confidence and results.

 

 

Here are the results of my paper tune:

 

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Shot # 1 is showing an very slight nock high right. So I move the rest slightly to the left. Keep in mind my rest is not a micro adjust rest

Shot # 2 is  now showing slightly nock right low. Moved the center shot a wee bit much. so I tweek it back to the right, all free hand, no micro screws

Shot # 3 is now showing  slightly nock high and so so slighly right. I loosen up the bolt and breath on the rest a bit to move it a bit more right.

Shot # 4 is a perfectly shot clean hole.

Shot #5 is a fletched shaft and is a thing of beauty.

 

My center shot turned out to be 7/8" to the center of the shaft off of the riser.

 

I ran outside like a nut to check my work. I shoot fletched arrows to resight in the sight. I am using the Trophy Ridge React sight. This sight works by getting a twenty yard mark. The top pin ( 20 ) is indepenant of the rest of the pins. Once you get the 20 set, move back to 30 or 40 and get that mark, either 30 or 40 , you do not need to get both the 30 and 40. Once you establish that second mark, the rest of your pins fall into place. So by getting a 20, then a 30 or 40 the rest of the pins fall into place. Now the sight is set from 20 yards out to 60 yards.

 

Ok after verifying my pins are on with field points, I screw on a couple broadheads. 20 yards is center mass, 30 yards is center mass. I stopped there for the night. Today when I got home from work, I grabbed my bow and proceeded to my back yard. I moved back to my 50 yard mark in the grass. Nocked a broadhead arrow, came to full draw, settled into the shot, it breaks and I'm amazed that i'm at best 1/2 off my mark at 50 yards. I call that DONE!!!!!!!... Now it is all about just shooting to keep my muscles strong and build even more confidence in my shot. I'm a strong and confident shooter anyway, but more shooting is always good for form and muscle memory. Here is the solo shot at 50 yards. FYI: This Cabela's Broadhead target is one tuff block. This target is over 3 years old and still stops my arrows flying at 319 fps... WARNING  >>>>>> Do Not Shoot Field Points into this block, there is a person I know who had to go to a chiropractor because he hurt his shoulder pulling a field pointed arrow out of the block....

 

1bqp.jpg

Edited by BowTechExperience
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Thanks Axiom, I paper test at various distances. I start out about 4 feet away and will take it back to about 20 yards. Regarding the level in the sight, to get the true best use from it, the sight needs to be able to adjust on a 3 axis so that the sight is completely square to the riser.

Edited by BowTechExperience
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Thanks Axiom, I paper test at various distances. I start out about 4 feet away and will take it back to about 20 yards. Regarding the level in the sight, to get the true best use from it, the sight needs to be able to adjust on a 3 axis so that the sight is completely square to the riser.

 

 

 Ok so i guess the distance used to paper test isnt critical, seems you just need to be inside 20 yards...... And i understand the level must be adjustable if using it is going to help.. However, my question was, how much does the bubble help.. Is it more useful for competition shooting than hunting?...Is it really needed?.. reason i'm asking is becase i dont have one on my sight..  And judging from the 5 arrow group i posted in my own thread, it would appear its just another lack of skill compensation gadget... But i know things arent always what they appear to be...

 

Your thoughts?.. :cupcoffee:

:D

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WARNING  >>>>>> Do Not Shoot Field Points into this block, there is a person I know who had to go to a chiropractor because he hurt his shoulder pulling a field pointed arrow out of the block....

 

Yes...definitely do NOT shoot field points into those targets! :rofl:

 

Nice shooting Ed, looks like you're ready!  Great breakdown of the tuning stages as well. :up:

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Axiom, the level on a sight will help mostly in an up hill, down hill or when shooting on terrain that is not level under your feel. It will keep your shots from going left or right because if the level is square ( assuming the sight has been squared to the riser when first installed on the bow ), it forces you to keep the bow perfectly straight up and down vertically. Which in turn keeps the rest in a proper vertical position thus keeping the arrow in a straight line to the intended target. 

 

Regarding the paper. I test out to 20 yards with paper because I could actually get a good clean tear at 4 feet and then get a bad tear at another distance because as the arrow launches, it goes through a bending process as it absorbs the bow energy (arrow paradox ). So I test from as close as possible out to 20 yards to make sure there is consistancy in the flight of the arow. Hope this makes sense..lol

 

Let me add that I do not move the paper further away from the back stop, I move further back from the paper.

Edited by BowTechExperience
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