Broadhead Shooting- Need Help

[Bully]

Howdy.

 

With the season coming up I've picked my bow back up and am starting to practice shooting again.  Last year I managed to harvest my first deer ever with my Quest bow and Grim Reaper expandable.  This year I would really like to shoot a fixed blade.  To add to the issue, I've switched bows and shafts so nothing is the same as it was.  My other problem is that I have absolutely no where to shoot them to see how they are flying out of my bow.  I had someone that was able to give me a hand last year that has moved from the area.  Does anyone have any suggestions?  I'd much prefer to not purchase a target specifically for broadheads if I can avoid it.  

 

FWIW, I'm up in Bergen Cty by Paramus.  

 

Thanks for any help.

[Rusty]

Muzzy makes great fixed blade heads that fly true and hold a great edge, you can't go wrong with them.  Thunderheads and Slick Tricks are also great heads.

 

I've got a broadhead target up here in Sussex if you can't find anything closer.  

Edited June 16, 2017 by Rusty

[koz]

wow ok lets start at the beginning. To get good broadhead fly is pretty straight forward. No magical formula.

 

1. You need to make sure that the arrows are the correct spine.

 

2. you need to get them shooting well with field points. sight your bow in to 10 yards. Make sure the field tips and broadheads are same weight. 

 

3. Now this is fun part. take three arrows with field point and shoot a group. Now take three broadhead tipped arrows shot group. Key is to use the same sight picture. the group will be little different. thats ok.

 

4. Move your rest to make the groups come together. the key is go slow and move little. always keep the same site picture. It is ok if your not hitting point of aim. the key is to "tune the arrow rest to your bow and to the peep site location. (ok)

 

5. Now that both groups are hitting the same spot. Move your site pins to point of aim. all done.

 

Truth this should be done with all your broadheads. fixed or mechanical will benefit from being shot out of a tuned bow. Most modern broadheads with tune. Some little faster that others. But all will get ya close. Keys to remember tune arrow(spine) tune rest, then site pins. Some bows tune easier than others. Ff your having problems check for arrow contact at the release,also might want to check your fletching.    

[BHC]

If you have too goto Targeteers in Saddle Brook, inform them you want to shoot broadheads it will cost a few dollars more then shooting field tips.

 

All of today's broadheads fly good if not great, if they don't the most likely issue is the fact your bow isn't tuned correctly, the broadheads should if all is good with your bow shoot as good as your field points or very close.

 

I shot many broadheads over my 37 years of bow hunting, from fix to mechanical and they have for the most part served me well, most of those years I shot Muzzy 3 blade 100gr., but last year with a total new bow I wanted to try a new broadhead and was told by a friend to try the G5 Strikers, they are smaller then the Muzzys and I was somewhat skeptical. Right out of the package they are scalpel sharp, they flew as good as my field points, and I took a bear with a complete passthru with a blood trail that was extremely visible.

 

Now some may agree, some may not, but I'm old school and I like my vanes lined up with my broadhead blades, theory behind this is simply aerodynamics.... After screwing in your broadheads to the shaft, heat the area of the broadhead where it is screwed in just enough to melt the glue a few seconds I use my stove top, then place on counter I use a cloth to put the broadhead on flat (2 blades down) so not to dull it and I turn the shaft itself to align the cock van (feather) with the single blade that is facing up (you may need to do this more then once until lined up) once the glue is dried I take the arrow and spin it like a child's toy top on the broadhead's tip if I see no wobble great, if i see one I repeat the process. This is just my opinion on what I do, plus it looks clean and neat in my quiver

[Bully]

Sorry, I should have clarified a bit more.

 

Bow is tuned.  Shoots lights out to the point that I don't shoot "groups" at 20 or 30 yards.  

 

I am wanting to switch to a 2 blade fixed head this season.  Gonna shoot the "Dirt Nap" heads.  Hence my needing a target to shoot into.

[Rusty]

Go to Targeteers in Saddle Brook, inform them you want to shoot broadheads it will cost a few dollars more then shooting field tips.

 

 

[beaverman]

Don't assume the bow is tuned because it will shoot field points.  Try bare shaft or shooting broadheads and the issues will become apparent.  It doesn't take much for the fletching to overcome paradox on a field point arrow.  Try removing that fletching or having something that wants to steer from the front and you will see the issues with the tune.

[Bully]

If you have too goto Targeteers in Saddle Brook, inform them you want to shoot broadheads it will cost a few dollars more then shooting field tips.

That may be my Sunday activity after I recover from brunch.

[Live to Hunt]

wow ok lets start at the beginning. To get good broadhead fly is pretty straight forward. No magical formula.

 

1. You need to make sure that the arrows are the correct spine.

 

2. you need to get them shooting well with field points. sight your bow in to 10 yards. Make sure the field tips and broadheads are same weight. 

 

3. Now this is fun part. take three arrows with field point and shoot a group. Now take three broadhead tipped arrows shot group. Key is to use the same sight picture. the group will be little different. thats ok.

 

4. Move your rest to make the groups come together. the key is go slow and move little. always keep the same site picture. It is ok if your not hitting point of aim. the key is to "tune the arrow rest to your bow and to the peep site location. (ok)

 

5. Now that both groups are hitting the same spot. Move your site pins to point of aim. all done.

 

Truth this should be done with all your broadheads. fixed or mechanical will benefit from being shot out of a tuned bow. Most modern broadheads with tune. Some little faster that others. But all will get ya close. Keys to remember tune arrow(spine) tune rest, then site pins. Some bows tune easier than others. Ff your having problems check for arrow contact at the release,also might want to check your fletching.

 

Wait I have to do all that. Can't I just screw on a RAGE and blame the Broad head or some other piece of my equipment when I miss or wound an animal.

[Rusty]

Wait I have to do all that. Can't I just screw on a RAGE and blame the Broad head or some other piece of my equipment when I miss or wound an animal.

 

With Muzzy, Thunderheads, and Slick Tricks all I've ever done was screw on a head and take a few practice shots.  They have always flown the same as my field points.  

[Lunatic]

my bow always shoots the same, field points or broadheads and in fact I only shoot field points anymore to practice. However; I shoot Rage so everything is perfect.

Edited June 16, 2017 by Lunatic

[JHbowhunter]

KOZ gave you really good advice.  #1 reason fixed BH's don't fly like FP's is weak spine, or in rarer cases extremely over-spined.   The general rule of thumb is to make micro-adjustments in your rest toward the direction of the FP's point of impact.  i.e. - BH hitting 3" to right of FP at 20 yards, move rest 1/32" to the left...

 

FP flying good is not an indication of a perfectly tuned bow - actually Fixed blades hitting same POI as FPs is a better indicator of perfectly tuned bow...

 

Also be aware of nock placement and nock travel.   uneven pressure on limbs can impact vertical, like fixed blades hitting higher than FP's.

 

I highly recommend full helical vanes or feathers - straight fletch is asking for trouble, you need as much steerage from the rear as possible.

[not on the rug]

Sorry, I should have clarified a bit more.

 

Bow is tuned.  Shoots lights out to the point that I don't shoot "groups" at 20 or 30 yards.  

 

I am wanting to switch to a 2 blade fixed head this season.  Gonna shoot the "Dirt Nap" heads.  Hence my needing a target to shoot into.

Shoot the magnus black hornets instead. They are nearly identical to the dirt nap heads, but are a better quality and have a lifetime warranty just like all other magnus heads.  I know the dirt nap heads now have a lifetime warranty as well, but when you do a side by side comparison of the two, the magnus is a way more sturdy head.  

[Bully]

Shoot the magnus black hornets instead. They are nearly identical to the dirt nap heads, but are a better quality and have a lifetime warranty just like all other magnus heads.  I know the dirt nap heads now have a lifetime warranty as well, but when you do a side by side comparison of the two, the magnus is a way more sturdy head.  

Would be great advice if I had the Magnus in hand.  However I do not.  I do have the Dirt Naps.  I'm going to shoot them this season and potentially switch again until I find something that I truly love.  I'll stick with that.  Hopefully I'll be able to narrow it down within a season or two.

[JHbowhunter]

Would be great advice if I had the Magnus in hand.  However I do not.  I do have the Dirt Naps.  I'm going to shoot them this season and potentially switch again until I find something that I truly love.  I'll stick with that.  Hopefully I'll be able to narrow it down within a season or two.

 

should be no issue getting your bow to shoot those with perfect flight, provided your arrows are properly spined and bow is in tune...