If you have too goto Targeteers in Saddle Brook, inform them you want to shoot broadheads it will cost a few dollars more then shooting field tips.
All of today's broadheads fly good if not great, if they don't the most likely issue is the fact your bow isn't tuned correctly, the broadheads should if all is good with your bow shoot as good as your field points or very close.
I shot many broadheads over my 37 years of bow hunting, from fix to mechanical and they have for the most part served me well, most of those years I shot Muzzy 3 blade 100gr., but last year with a total new bow I wanted to try a new broadhead and was told by a friend to try the G5 Strikers, they are smaller then the Muzzys and I was somewhat skeptical. Right out of the package they are scalpel sharp, they flew as good as my field points, and I took a bear with a complete passthru with a blood trail that was extremely visible.
Now some may agree, some may not, but I'm old school and I like my vanes lined up with my broadhead blades, theory behind this is simply aerodynamics.... After screwing in your broadheads to the shaft, heat the area of the broadhead where it is screwed in just enough to melt the glue a few seconds I use my stove top, then place on counter I use a cloth to put the broadhead on flat (2 blades down) so not to dull it and I turn the shaft itself to align the cock van (feather) with the single blade that is facing up (you may need to do this more then once until lined up) once the glue is dried I take the arrow and spin it like a child's toy top on the broadhead's tip if I see no wobble great, if i see one I repeat the process. This is just my opinion on what I do, plus it looks clean and neat in my quiver